The weather is so ugly here today, might as well catch up on what's been going on...
A little lesson (I shoulda known
) for us 'Rest of World" FJR's with ignition immobilizers.. when you put the red master key in the ignition and turn it on, the ECU sends everything in "I want to program a new chip key" mode. When you shut it off, it gets confused because you didn't, and has to time out of programming mode. So I did what I should have done day one, put the red key in a safe storage location so it won't get lost (if you lose it, you're buying a new ECU and immobilizer, big ouch). Only the black keys are meant for running the bike. You can get some other colours/key blanks (knock-offs from offshore)... Guess who has some blue bling coming later...
Essentially, the starter relay decided to crap out and had to get a new one. It's now installed, and I did flip the key on, hit the start button and it clicky real nice. But, I have to catch you up on a back story..... all the experienced starter motor people can go to sleep for a bit...........
When the attempt to start went awry, and knowing the relay was the issue, Hack and I put power directly to the starter to confirm it wasn't part of the problem. Funny, it spun up freely, whizzing away but did not turn the engine over. That could only mean one thing, the starter clutch was not engaging. That's a gear mechanism behind the stator that locks when the starter is pushed. Well, supposed to. When the engine starts, the starter stops (via dual Fuel Pump/Start Cut-off Relay), starter clutch stops turning because it is always engaged with the starter, lock mechanism freewheels. Well, this new engine has never been apart, so what could be wrong with the starter clutch. Answer, nothing. But guess what happens if the starter is turning the wrong direction? Yep, will freewheel the starter clutch, it will never engage. How come?
Rewind to over a year ago when I first got the basket case. I had decided to inspect the innards of the starter, ensure it was clean inside, so disassembled starter, did the cleaning, reassembled. Checked the FSM for special instructions (none), simple enough. This is what it looked like with the two screws loosened, ready to take apart. Then the end cap comes off.
After end cap off, pull housing off and armature comes with it. Not necessarily the recommended way, instead should hold the gear end in the vice and not the housing..... armature will stay in place in the brushes. Lesson learned, although I'd had starters apart before, just not a bike/FJR one, had only seen pictures. Learned another lesson later. The cylinder contains 4 very strong permanent magnets, so pulls out the armature with it. So it's not too dirty, no oil leaking past the end seal, in great shape. Round brownish washer is a thrust washer, and hidden underneath it is another one (no pic), only toothed and must be oriented correctly and seated... otherwise, when you put it together and snug the screws, the armature binds on the end cap, armature won't turn..
DAMHIK.
Anyway, armature/commutator was in great shape, electrically no bridges or shorts, cleaned it up, brushes too, put it all back together. So, gave it a drink of some 12 volt juice, spins nice, good to go. Installed it, throttle bodies, airbox... waited for the big Moment Of Truth day, and we know now it was actually spinning the wrong way..... so who do you call, Ghostbusters? No, send an email to your friend who knows all about FJR starters, Brother FJRay way out there in Oregon. I told him what I had done, and he 'splained the permanent magnets in the housing needed to be rotated 90 degrees, and once spinning the correct way, one can fine tune the current draw by rotating it one way or the other a degree or two. And to quote dear Ray's reply, "I'm sure you know that the first question on the trouble shooting flow chart is."Did you touch it"". Ummm... Yep, did too!
Ray had also mentioned to line up witness marks... there aren't any, so I assume he meant the bit of dirt I cleaned off. Lesson learned with these starters, make witness marks so you know the orientation. So dialed it all in, also re-read Ionbeam's post about measuring current draw
, and I hooked up my Bitmeter for the first time, quite cool, thank you Alan and associated contributors.
The starter is back in the bike, gave the start button a quick burst, engine spins like a top. Throttle bodies back on and airbox installed (third time, getting good at it). Air cleaner all back in, and put the newish side covers on. You know it's gonna start now. Hack will once again have the honours, and all I have to do is hook up some fuel.
