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Ray, I'm really enjoying watching the progress of your project bike, thanks for sharing.

I think I’m rapidly getting to the point where I might need something to hold up my nuts. A piece of foam might do the trick. JSNS....

You need to keep a loose but firm grasp.... take Bust for example, he lost his and found them in Sheila's purse, JSNS.

Continued nice work Ray, enjoying following along!

~G

Gotta keep them nuts hoisted. Ya see them old men who sit on their own balls. Not good. A little foam will help.

Lots of stuff happening as the bike finally comes together. I had not yet gotten to the front end to clean up the forks, remove accumulated brake dust from calipers, go over the brakes, etc. Basically, apply Simple Green with small paint brush/toothbrush, wipe down, naptha on the greasy residues, followed by isopropanol wipe.



Removed brake pads/pins/anti-rattle clips, clean up, put a piece of wood in the caliper (I used this one, it's a tad too thick, 1/4" is OK), pump out the pistons, clean them up.



About those pins and anti-rattle clips.... I had done work on the bike some time ago, brake pads nearly new, I had used the Honda (43215-KZ4-J41) pad pins that have a nice 8 mm hex head, and they don't seem to seize in like the OEM pins. Also shine up those anti-rattle clips, I am disappointed they were not gold plated because they cost U$27 each (Partzilla), and the OEM pins are U$23. Add half again for full list price. The Honda pins are $4.





While we have nothing on the forks and can rotate them, heat the black deflectors with a hair dryer, gently pry and slide them up, pry up dust seals, thought I'd run a Seal Mate to clean up the main fork seals.. weren't bad at all, I had done these a couple of years ago, new springs and bushings. Filled the groove in the bearing seals, installed wheel.





How to hold the axle if you need to, a spark plug socket will fit, the one from my '14 tool kit will not quite even with filing the burrs off, and I use a short bolt with two nuts jammed on it (19mm hex).



PIc for you guys that complain about scratching up your wheels while removing/installing calipers. Remove the screw holding the hose clip, the one my finger is pointing at. Spread the pads by wiggling caliper, you can remove and install the caliper without even touching the wheel. Use painter's tape if you like.....



Axle torqued. Note FSM procedure for pinch bolts isn't the best. I recommend to let right side fork seek its natural position with wheel off the floor (i.e., don't force it "flush" like FSM), next snug the pinch bolts, torque the two evenly. Doesn't matter which pair of pinch bolts you do first. A experienced rider on another forum was having issues making right turns... the fix, loosen up the bolts, retorque, all good. Basically, the forks sought their natural position/alignment.



Next a little prevention.. some have issues with ABS lights flashing or cruise won't engage/disengages. Common issue that can occur is aluminum corrosion (not coated) in the ABS sensor adapter (the fuzzy one in the background of the pic). This bridges between the adapter and the sensor and causes false signals to the ECU. Clean off any white residue and grease the hole with a thin film of silicone/dielectric grease. Then clean the ABS sensor of any aluminum residue and apply silicone grease there around the plastic adapter, and ABS sensor will not "get stuck" in the hole as some have found. Final note on this, Gen2 torque spec on the sensor screw is 22 ft. lbs. Totally budiculous! Gen3 spec is 5.1 ft. lbs. but it is a smaller screw. Perfect application for a little Loctite and snug it up, done! Leave your torque wrench in the toolbox.

Lots of goodness in that last post.

Multitasking as always, one way to get instant gratification is to add BLING! It all has to happen sometime anyway.
These are a set of cans I've had here for 5 years, take-offs when a gent put an aftermarket exhaust on his nearly new bike. Not a mark on them, only traces of carbon in the tips. A little Autosol metal polish on the stainless mid-pipes, looking good.



I spent way too much time detailing the saddlebags, but I want my good friend G to know that I tried my best to uphold his impeccable standards. G is awesome to say the least! Clean inside and out and all the bits you can't see.





Side panels will be replaced with a nice set I found on Fleabay. Vertically challenged PO had removed seat bracket so seat would be lower, unfortunately they scrub the tops of the side panels and cracked the upper tabs at the front. I had repaired them with plastic epoxy a couple of years ago, and they are holding up, but G and I would both wholeheartedly agree they can't stay on a bike this clean.

Rear end el completo!!



OK, temporarily installed tank, awaiting the Moment of Truth. I have not pushed the Start button, I'm reserving that priviledge for my friend Hack who is visiting in a coupla days. IF anything goes wrong, I'll have somebody to blame. But, you know it's gonna start, right? Further prep, I went through all the diagnostic screens, checked for codes (none), cycled the injectors, fuel pump, ignition coils, headlights and whatever else the diagnostic screens let you do (followed the book).



One thing I don't have is the 8 x 160mm bolt that mounts the rear of the fuel tank. New one is way too much money, taking a trip to my local fastener house (Brafasco) hoping they can fix me up......

Awesome.

You aren't still tricking us are you? When does the work begin?

“Filling the grove” for the wheel bearing. Never heard of that before. Interesting. Thermal expansion of the grease cause any concern?

Wheatie, think of it as an adventure... just enjoy the ride and what might be around the next corner.

Pants, if you slather it on you're gonna get some squeeze-out and it will fling around, much like if you put too much on the rear drive splines. Just filling the grove so the seal turns freely on the spacers and prevents water intrusion, although the bearings are well sealed anyway. Nothing gets hot to the point of expanding the grease very much at all, if it does, you got a wheel bearing problem.

Autosol FTW

My very first bike, was 1974 CB125. I bought it used in 1975 from my BIL. He was an insurance adjuster and wrote it off, and bought it for my sister. It had been backed into in a parking lot. Bent shock, rashed exhaust, bent footpegs and worst of all, a broken batter that leaked acid all over the cases, frame etc.

I nagged him and my sis for ages and it was finally mine for the princely sum of $400. I bought the hard parts it needed (the shock and the exhaust were unobtanium and were ordered from Japan). I spent the summer riding around in the dirt on a basically new street bike. I fell down a lot. Over the winter, the bike was brought upstairs and put on the balcony - on the 11th floor.

I spent a huge amount of time wet sanding the acid stains out of the cases, 320, 400, 800, 1200 and finally 2000 grit. Then I hit the whole mess with Autosol, By hand. At the time, I thought my fingers were gonna be permanently black from the aluminum. They came out spectacularly.

I've been a fan of Autosol ever since. That shit is _magic_.

Here is Weird Al jacking my bike in my living room.

I hope that you are wearing that fancy red & black Yamaha shop coat during this process.
(BTW - nice work)


Canadian FJR

Sometimes Scott, and it gets a laundering when necessary. Meanwhile my very old suede Red Wing jacket is showing a lot of "patina" from shop use.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Wed Jan 30, 2019 3:01 pm Meanwhile my very old suede Red Wing jacket is showing a lot of "patina" from shop use.

It looks just broken in as far as I can tell...

What about the speedometer? Since you are putting in a gen 3 motor, IIRC, the transmission gearing is what made the final ratio (at the road) reduce rpm at a given speed compared to the Gen 1/2. IOW - the pumpkin is the same, same ring/pinion ratio - yes?

Speedo reads the ABS sensor, tranny or rear drive hasn't changed Gen2 to 2015. 2016+ got the six gear.

f@$k!

Well, that was ….. uneventful. At the risk of questioning your expertise, I feel it necessary to inform you that your rear tank bolt improvisation is most assuredly not going to work. The first time you really lean it one way of the other, and get your inside knee where you want it to REALLY test the cornering capability of the FJR, you are going to need more than a piece of foam to hold up your nuts. JSNS....

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