FJRiders.com

raYzerman wrote: ↑Thu Mar 13, 2025 12:33 pm So, Penske and GP on the '13 sounds great. You got a plan!!

Those loose springs in the pic look like could be original '07.

Yes the shortest one's are the stock ones notice that the spacers had been cut for the Hyper Pro build. They are now a bit shorter.

fontanaman wrote: ↑Tue Mar 11, 2025 11:31 pm

Toter wrote: ↑Tue Mar 11, 2025 6:43 pm

fontanaman wrote: ↑Mon Mar 10, 2025 7:49 pm Installed XPEL Gloss Surface Protection Film on the new right side fairing panel. I bought a roll of XPEL so I had to make templates using engineering paper, you know the stuff with lots of lines.

Got pictures of you installing?

Today I cleaned up areas normally not accessible. There was a lot of dust and crud in there. The battery terminals were cleaned, dialectic grease applied and reattached. The fairing beak/tunnel was removed and cleaned. I also cleaned the windscreen sliders.

Here are a few photos.

Half naked!



Beak/Tunnel removed. It reminds me of the Borge.



The new right side fairing panel with ZPEL installed in a few places.



Tomorrow I may get the fairing reinstalled, then the air filter will be replaced and on to inspect the suspension pivots.

Looks like you are deep into it. Was there a mishap with the bike that warranted the new fairing piece?

raYzerman wrote: ↑Wed Mar 12, 2025 1:39 pm When I use anti-seize it is to fill the bottom two-three threads only and coat them to help prevent the combustion carbon from wicking up those first coupla threads.... that's it. Anti-seize on plugs should be minimal, you want lots of contact for grounding to the head. Not that you should worry about that too much, there should be plenty.

As for torque, just install according to NGK's guideline, printed on the box. Turn in until crush washer seats, then I go 1/4 turn more. This is proper torque and leaves you room to check and re-install later if need be, little bit of crush in the crush washer remaining. You can follow this for any plug with crush washers.

Ray, don't see how that makes sense as far as the anti-sieze. When you put it on the bottom two-three threads (assume you mean electrode end), once you screw it into the head, it gets spread across all the threads. Seems like a belt and suspenders approach that could be detrimental since they are plated to resist corrosion with the aluminum.

Toter wrote: ↑Thu Mar 13, 2025 2:49 pm
Looks like you are deep into it. Was there a mishap with the bike that warranted the new fairing piece?

Yes. Last year I clipped a 2x4 kicking it up snapping 6 inches of the fairing away from the aft lower mount. I was able to secure the lower aft fairing and as a bonus feature it was much easier to drain the engine coolant but ultimately I decided to buy a new fairing.

I have strongly debated selling the FJR and want to be able to pull the trigger, selling a bike in good condition. The fairing was on back order for about 3 weeks.

Ed, one would think, but anti-seize sticks to everything, so it stays on as a coating......

One bolt is usually enough for me. Fortunately I have always remembered to wash my hands BEFORE using the pisser...

Did some more cleaning an finished installing all the plastic part. No extra fasteners upon completion. The battery cover rear bolt is a certifiable PIA to install.

It's good to read that our northern friends are thawing out enough to start kicking tires. PMS seems to be waning. Right on, man....

Replaced the engine air filter on my FJR today.

fontanaman wrote: ↑Fri Mar 14, 2025 5:20 pm Replaced the engine air filter on my FJR today.

Is there any other kind?

Installed new Vstrom handguards on the FJR. I had them on previously, but, somehow broke the end by the bar end weight. I think I leaned on it throwing my leg over and broke the bottom of the "C". Tried gluing it twice but no cigar. Only mod required was to open up the hole in the hand guard to fit the larger inner diameter of the FJR bar ends. Dremel and sanding drum made quick work of that.

2025 maiden voyage and shake down ride this afternoon.

Only issue is no power to radar detector and cell mount - will track that down Sunday.



Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

extrememarine wrote: ↑Fri Mar 14, 2025 7:02 pm 2025 maiden voyage and shake down ride this afternoon.

Only issue is no power to radar detector and cell mount - will track that down Sunday.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

So a bit slower without the radar? After you fix the radar you will have to check it again at full warp.

My Ohlins is still at Adreani and my fork seal and bushing have been delivered. I will be working on it soon doing the forks.

Toter wrote: ↑Fri Mar 14, 2025 5:49 pm

fontanaman wrote: ↑Fri Mar 14, 2025 5:20 pm Replaced the engine air filter on my FJR today.

Is there any other kind?

If he took it to the dealership for service, you know they'd try to sell him a new cabin air filter.

Got me a little maintenance done today:

- cleaned & lubed clutch & brake lever pivots. When I did this last year the clutch lever brass bushing was beginning to show a little wear on the OD so I replaced it today;

- cleaned & lubed rear brake pedal pivot. I had forgotten what a PITA the small switch spring is;

Over the winter I purchased some Emgo mirrors, today I installed the right side one. I gotta say, no offense to anyone, but IMNSHO those are some gawdawful fugly things. I put my stock mirrors and SW Motech mirror extenders back on.

- cleaned & lubed mirror swivels. I fold my mirrors a lot so I do this regularly. Left side got new BBs;

- cleaned & lubed windshield tracks and guides. Pretty easy access on the Gen3.

In all a decently productive day

New tires, bled rear brake on Brian's GEN III.

It has been a few years since I've done anything but change tires on an FJR.

The rear brake pedal is still kind of soft and has quite a bit of travel.
The brake pads looked good while the wheel was off. Do you have any suggestions?

Yep, soft pedal comes up on a regular basis... bleed right front lower caliper first, then the rear. Should firm it up nicely.... do this annually. Don't forget the front brakes, and especially the clutch.... look in the reservoir, betting it's looking a little dark and murky.

bigjohnsd wrote: ↑Sat Mar 15, 2025 4:02 pm New tires, bled rear brake on Brian's GEN III.

It has been a few years since I've done anything but change tires on an FJR.

The rear brake pedal is still kind of soft and has quite a bit of travel.
The brake pads looked good while the wheel was off. Do you have any suggestions?

As Ray so nicely alluded to, but I will be more blunt:

Dumbass!! You forgot to bleed the right front caliper part of the rear brake circuit!!! For crying out loud Langdell! A retired Navy guy not following the proper PMs???? Sacrilege! No Bravo Zulu for you!

SkooterG wrote: ↑Sat Mar 15, 2025 5:42 pm

bigjohnsd wrote: ↑Sat Mar 15, 2025 4:02 pm New tires, bled rear brake on Brian's GEN III.

It has been a few years since I've done anything but change tires on an FJR.

The rear brake pedal is still kind of soft and has quite a bit of travel.
The brake pads looked good while the wheel was off. Do you have any suggestions?

As Ray so nicely alluded to, but I will be more blunt:

Dumbass!! You forgot to bleed the right front caliper part of the rear brake circuit!!! For crying out loud Langdell! A retired Navy guy not following the proper PMs???? Sacrilege! No Bravo Zulu for you!

Whip me, Whip me ........