FJRiders.com

Looks straight and flat, but most assuredly not boring....

(have fun!!)

Did a complete brake service on Renee. New fluid, cleaned pads and calipers, installed Speedbleeders, swapped some pads around, and bled the systems.
Also, new clutch fluid, Speedbleeder installed, system bled. Used a 7mm bronze bore brush in a cordless drill to clean out all the holes in all 3 rotors. If you have never done this, it's amazing the amount of crap that comes out of those holes. Bore brush works a treat. Renee has had lots of love lately and should be good to go for a while.

Changed engine oil and filter, run new brake fluid thru brake and clutch systems and cycled the ABS. Lubed clutch and brake levers. Sadly, putting it out for sale. It has been such a joy to own and ride but I think the time has come sadly.

Not mine, but a friend's new-to-him 2013 FJR with 58k kms. got a complete valve check, coolant change, brake pedal and shifter linkage lube. No shimming required. Used lessons learned from Intech to pull the valve cover out and get it back in.... piece of cake, thanks Bobby for the lessons on removing the wire harness out of the way...... and I did remove the throttle cables at the grip, goes way easier.

So what us the technique to pull the valve cover out and get it back in.... piece of cake?

fontanaman wrote: ↑Wed May 01, 2024 11:15 pm So what us the technique to pull the valve cover out and get it back in.... piece of cake?

Disconnect throttle cables at grip. Disconnect throttle cable bracket under tank. Unplug all injectors and pop harness stays out of brackets and move out of way. I removed the PAIR system on my 15ES and replaced with block off plates from Wayne. This also makes valve cover lower and easier to replace.
I removed and cleaned the valve cover and gasket, then went around entire gasket surface groove and degreased it, then put small dabs of sealer every inch or so in the groove. Then pressed the gasket in carefully and evenly, and cleaned up any excess. Let that set for 45 min. and it went right on. I think on16 and up you need to keep the PAIR solenoid plugged in, or you will get an error code. Can still install block off plates though.

That's about it, but additionally, unplug the TPS sensor, and suddenly the harness is connected to nothing..... you are then free to take the harness up and forward over the handlebars. With the PAIR off, the engine bay is wide open, no obstructions, valve cover can come straight back and out without much drama. Going back in is also no drama, just the usual care not to dislodge the gasket as you go over the cam chain. I'd say now even easier than a Gen1 or 2 since there are no throttle cables in the way.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Thu May 02, 2024 7:17 am That's about it, but additionally, unplug the TPS sensor, and suddenly the harness is connected to nothing..... you are then free to take the harness up and forward over the handlebars. With the PAIR off, the engine bay is wide open, no obstructions, valve cover can come straight back and out without much drama. Going back in is also no drama, just the usual care not to dislodge the gasket as you go over the cam chain. I'd say now even easier than a Gen1 or 2 since there are no throttle cables in the way.

Those cables going back Into the grip housing were a PITA. But better to fight there, than with the valve cover and possibly dislodge the gasket.

Toter wrote: ↑Thu May 02, 2024 9:09 am
Those cables going back Into the grip housing were a PITA. But better to fight there, than with the valve cover and possibly dislodge the gasket.

Ed, any reason you disconnected them at the grip instead of where they hook to the side of the throttle body assembly? I've never seen anyone take them off at the grip. I think it's just 2 screws to take the bracket loose on the throttle body and it all comes off. Something like that. It's been a while, but I don't recall it being an issue.

Taking off the two screws at the TB's just allows you to pull the cables aside, but they're still too "stretched" to get out of the way, need to undo at the grip. Once you understand things at the grip, it's not bad, but can be frustrating trying to put 4 things in place at once. Anyway, undo it at the grip and all is free space in the engine bay.

I've decided that I'm not going to even check my valves until about 50K mile on this FJR. But when I do, those tips (which are described beautifully, thank you) will be deployed. I've done the "disconnect the cable at the grip" thing (and <<< that is definitely better than disconnecting at the T/B), but not the wiring harness thing. Great ideas!

Toter wrote: ↑Thu May 02, 2024 6:27 am

fontanaman wrote: ↑Wed May 01, 2024 11:15 pm So what us the technique to pull the valve cover out and get it back in.... piece of cake?

I think on16 and up you need to keep the PAIR solenoid plugged in, or you will get an error code. Can still install block off plates though.

This is true. Don't ask me how I know.

Hppants wrote: ↑Thu May 02, 2024 10:11 am I've decided that I'm not going to even check my valves until about 50K mile on this FJR. But when I do, those tips (which are described beautifully, thank you) will be deployed. I've done the "disconnect the cable at the grip" thing (and <<< that is definitely better than disconnecting at the T/B), but not the wiring harness thing. Great ideas!

Pants,
I don't know about the 50k decision. Mine at 34k had all intakes at min. of .15 mm and one at .135 mm. All exhausts were middle. And I don't run this thing really hard. Plenty of full throttle runs but not, "Drive it like you stole it".

Toter wrote: ↑Thu May 02, 2024 1:04 pm I don't know about the 50k decision. Mine at 34k had all intakes at min. of .15 mm and one at .135 mm. All exhausts were middle. And I don't run this thing really hard. Plenty of full throttle runs but not, "Drive it like you stole it".

In all fairness, you did loan it to Jeff Let's blame him

It's been a while, but the "survey" that was done years ago revealed the vast majority (I believe it was 89%) of bikes needed no adjustment at the first check. For the 3 I've owned long enough to get to the first check, none have needed an adjustment.

But fari enough - maybe 35K miles would be a bit more prudent. Obviously, clearances going toward the minimum (tightening) is more concerning.

Hppants wrote: ↑Thu May 02, 2024 3:58 pm It's been a while, but the "survey" that was done years ago revealed the vast majority (I believe it was 89%) of bikes needed no adjustment at the first check. For the 3 I've owned long enough to get to the first check, none have needed an adjustment.

But fari enough - maybe 35K miles would be a bit more prudent. Obviously, clearances going toward the minimum (tightening) is more concerning.

Both of my GEN II had the intakes close to minimum and the exhaust valves in the middle of the range. I think I got to well over 100,000 km (62,000 mi) or so before any adjustments were needed. Never had to adjust exhaust valves on either in 186,000 miles on one bike and 100,000 (so far) on the other. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about it but the timing works well with coolant and sparkplug change anyway. Doesn't really take much time if adjustments aren't needed and if they are, you needed it done anyway. At least it is nice to have a baseline. If all are middle of the range, I would have no issue waiting another 50,000 miles before the next check but if some are close to the edge, I would button it up and plan to check again at the next regular interval. Keep in mind that "on the edge" is a pass and there is enough tolerance in the acceptance interval so the amount of change that is expected before the next scheduled check is unlikely to do any harm - even if it is below spec at that time.

Let's say we don't really know...... I'd have no problem going to 40k. But if I'm pulling cams I'm reshimming everything to be nominal or above and uniform.....

Festus wrote: ↑Thu May 02, 2024 9:27 am <<snip>>...any reason you disconnected them at the grip instead of where they hook to the side of the throttle body assembly? I've never seen anyone take them off at the grip. I think it's just 2 screws to take the bracket loose on the throttle body and it all comes off. Something like that. It's been a while, but I don't recall it being an issue.

Exactly what I've done with my '15 on the first two checks. Use a bent needle-nose and hooking them back up at TB's isn't too bad. Probably just as easy up top but I detest the four handed game at the grip. YMMV

~G

Re-connecting the cables at the grip is WORLD"S easier with a 3rd (or 4th) hand. No doubt.

I rode my FJR about 240 smiles today.