FJRiders.com

BikerGeek wrote: ↑Fri Mar 08, 2024 12:56 pm

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Fri Mar 08, 2024 12:49 pm Outstanding brake pad material efficiency! Less brake material for the landfill as well.

And less brake material = less weight = more speed!

Don't forget, you are specifically reducing unsprung weight, that's a huge advantage!

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Fri Mar 08, 2024 12:49 pm Outstanding brake pad material efficiency! Less brake material for the landfill as well.

I was thinking that Wayne's method on brake pads is just like your method on tires. Leave it all on the road. Well done!

Hppants wrote: ↑Fri Mar 08, 2024 1:30 pm

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Fri Mar 08, 2024 12:49 pm Outstanding brake pad material efficiency! Less brake material for the landfill as well.

I was thinking that Wayne's method on brake pads is just like your method on tires. Leave it all on the road. Well done!

If those are your new brake pads I'd send them back.

extrememarine wrote: ↑Fri Mar 08, 2024 12:26 pm


I have new brake pads....

I rode my FJR today for the second time is year. Yahoo!

I took some photos with my new motophoto Canon camera. Pretty impressive little camera.

There was snow in some of the wheatfields today.





In other places not so much snow.







Nice day to be on the FJR.

Nice Jim.

Oil change, tire pressure checks /adjustment, final drive oil swap, air filter check and bike wash. I don’t have any specific ride planned, but yeah, this basically means anywhere in North America is in range with an FJR.

Cav47 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 09, 2024 5:14 pm ...this basically means anywhere in North America is in range with an FJR.

FJR = ICBM.

Yesterday- oil/filter/FD fluid. Then checked the pegs/boards and found them so dirty they didn’t want to move freely. Cleaned, greased, and replaced.

Today, rode it in the rain to go for a run and a hill climb.

Forks are draining.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Weather today is not really cut out for riding, 50mph wind gusts and crazy snow squalls coming out of nowhere but not laying so that's good. Good day to lube all the control pivot points on both FJRs. The 2014 has been done before and I got through that one quickly. The 2013 I picked up in Fall I hadn't done yet but knew I wanted to do. Not sure if it's ever been done in its past but if so, someone used red Loctite on that T-50 head bolt on the gear shift side. Had to use a micro torch to keep heating the bolt head to melt that crap and it still fought me all the way out. Glad I have a tap and die set to clean out all of the residual crap still in the hole and on the bolt. Need to do the relay arm soon. Have new bolts for the center stand already, just need to make the time to do it.

The rear brake sponginess has been solved. Pants gave me a call and video tutored me through the installation of some speed bleeders that Andy gave me a few years ago. After a quick run to the car was to remove any brake fluid residue I couldn’t wipe off, the difference is remarkable. The pedal is firm while still having proper feel.


I had some significant air in the line. All is good now.

After my Sunday debacle with the red Loctited T-50 torx head cap screw that must be removed to lube the shifter I've been on a mission to get a replacement bolt and preferably one that is a regular hex bit and if possible Stainless steel so corrosion won't be an issue. Let's just say that metric fine thread hardware is not super common and it was looking like I'd have to order from Europe or Asia and pay more in shipping than I'd pay for the bolts. I cam across a website for Pro Bolts but their US site was down so I emailed the contact listed and as of about an hour ago it's back up and operational so I ordered these.

https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainless-s ... mx20mm/

Thought I'd post this for anyone else who wants to get rid of that damned T-50 headed bolt so you need one less tool to service your bike.

BkerChuck wrote: ↑Wed Mar 13, 2024 11:25 am https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainless-s ... mx20mm/
Thought I'd post this for anyone else who wants to get rid of that damned T-50 headed bolt so you need one less tool to service your bike.

Riders,

You may have more local sources than you know. That aside, Maryland Metric has everything I have needed in Metric. DIY links:

viewtopic.php?p=182249#p182249

Red wrote: ↑Wed Mar 13, 2024 1:49 pm

BkerChuck wrote: ↑Wed Mar 13, 2024 11:25 am https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainless-s ... mx20mm/
Thought I'd post this for anyone else who wants to get rid of that damned T-50 headed bolt so you need one less tool to service your bike.

Riders,

You may have more local sources than you know. That aside, Maryland Metric has everything I have needed in Metric. DIY links:

viewtopic.php?p=182249#p182249

Maryland Metrics is permanently closed. I spent a fairly significant amount of time yesterday emailing all of the hardware suppliers we use here at my work. It's a shame but metric hardware is miserable to get in anything beyond the"normal" sizes and that bolt happens to be fine pitch which was the biggest hurdle. I could get M10-1.5 all day long and even locally.

Installed my taller touring National Cycle windshield. I have been running the Sport/Tour windsheild which is about 3" shorter than the touring windshield but no wider. I am hoping for less buffeting.

BkerChuck wrote: ↑Wed Mar 13, 2024 11:25 am After my Sunday debacle with the red Loctited T-50 torx head cap screw that must be removed to lube the shifter I've been on a mission to get a replacement bolt and preferably one that is a regular hex bit and if possible Stainless steel so corrosion won't be an issue. Let's just say that metric fine thread hardware is not super common and it was looking like I'd have to order from Europe or Asia and pay more in shipping than I'd pay for the bolts. I cam across a website for Pro Bolts but their US site was down so I emailed the contact listed and as of about an hour ago it's back up and operational so I ordered these.

https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainless-s ... mx20mm/

Thought I'd post this for anyone else who wants to get rid of that damned T-50 headed bolt so you need one less tool to service your bike.

Yes, that T50 torx bolt was a dumb idea. I replaced mine years ago with a hex head bolt. Fortunately for me I found one in my parts bins, and all I had to do was cut it shorter.

Rode it to work...beautiful day on the north coast of Ohio

Aired up the tars. Both were 1-2lbs low. Noted that the rear tire has plenty of center tread left, but is squared from interstate use, leaving a rough corrugated corner that is notable on low speed turns.

This set will last through Tour of Honor. Ordered a set of PR4GT’s. Soon.

fontanaman wrote: ↑Wed Mar 13, 2024 4:19 pm Installed my taller touring National Cycle windshield. I have been running the Sport/Tour windsheild which is about 3" shorter than the touring windshield but no wider. I am hoping for less buffeting.

Suggestion..... put 3/8-1/2" shims (need longer bolts) on the 4 windshield brackets to raise the windshield off the fairing further..... the airflow going up the back edge will lessen the buffeting.