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Valve Adjustment Issue
- Auburn
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Valve Adjustment Issue
I am splitting off the other valve adjust issue thread https://www.fjriders.com/forums/viewtop ... 204#p88204 as I am having a slightly different issue now.
(images borrowed from raYzerman)
I rechecked went through and reset the cams, all the marks line up, no slack in the chain on the exhaust side, chain is tight between the cams. Bike starts up easily, idles for about a minute. If I try to crack open the throttle, it dies. Starts up easily again.
My bike is set up with the following:
here are the valve numbers:
When I pulled the plugs they looked perfect. Nice clean, no build up, white in color. I also run a PC5 with autone (no changes to the settings). I add ring free with every tank. Bike was running fine when I parked it for the winter. Fuel had stabile added on the last tank before winter. Only and 2 gallons left in tank, Bike has been stored on my bike lift all winter. My bike is ridden 2 up about 95% of the time and has about 40,000 miles pulling a trailer. It has been worked hard, not run at high RPM for extended periods of time. Typically it is on the open road running about 4200 RPM in 5th.
I am going to go back in and recheck the valves clearances, check the timing marks all line up, do a compression test. If that all checks out then I will remove the PC5 from the equation. After that I am at loss of what else to check.
Any thoughts?
(images borrowed from raYzerman)
I rechecked went through and reset the cams, all the marks line up, no slack in the chain on the exhaust side, chain is tight between the cams. Bike starts up easily, idles for about a minute. If I try to crack open the throttle, it dies. Starts up easily again.
My bike is set up with the following:
here are the valve numbers:
When I pulled the plugs they looked perfect. Nice clean, no build up, white in color. I also run a PC5 with autone (no changes to the settings). I add ring free with every tank. Bike was running fine when I parked it for the winter. Fuel had stabile added on the last tank before winter. Only and 2 gallons left in tank, Bike has been stored on my bike lift all winter. My bike is ridden 2 up about 95% of the time and has about 40,000 miles pulling a trailer. It has been worked hard, not run at high RPM for extended periods of time. Typically it is on the open road running about 4200 RPM in 5th.
I am going to go back in and recheck the valves clearances, check the timing marks all line up, do a compression test. If that all checks out then I will remove the PC5 from the equation. After that I am at loss of what else to check.
Any thoughts?
get out and ride! IBA #54706
- Auburn
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Re: Valve Adjustment Issue
I'm at a loss what to look for. Any ideas would be appreciated.
I went back in and checked the following:
Valves check out as shown on the valve sheet above.
Cam/crank timing are correct
Compression #1 190, #2 165, #3 192, #4 190 (Checked them twice, ran the starter until they stabilized for about 5 seconds before stopping, they were each up to pressure in about 4 cycles)
I also removed the PC5 form the system.
The bike starts easily, goes through the warm up cycle and starts to idle down after about 30 seconds. If I try to open the throttle, it dies. If I leave it idling, it dies after about a minute. It will restart again, but can't get it to go above an idle. Ran the same way with the PC5 out of the system. Although it didn't start as easily.
I went back into check the timing again to make sure it was still correct and it is. While doing so an odd thing happened, when I unplug the fuel line to take the tank off, there is unusually high pressure on the fuel line. It gushes fuel when I separate the connector, normally you get just a little fuel, but this will soak a shop rag. This happened the other two times I removed the tank after the doing the first valve check. The very first time I took the tank off, it was the normal few drops no crazy high pressure.
Is it possible I have a fuel injector(s) stuck open?
I went back in and checked the following:
Valves check out as shown on the valve sheet above.
Cam/crank timing are correct
Compression #1 190, #2 165, #3 192, #4 190 (Checked them twice, ran the starter until they stabilized for about 5 seconds before stopping, they were each up to pressure in about 4 cycles)
I also removed the PC5 form the system.
The bike starts easily, goes through the warm up cycle and starts to idle down after about 30 seconds. If I try to open the throttle, it dies. If I leave it idling, it dies after about a minute. It will restart again, but can't get it to go above an idle. Ran the same way with the PC5 out of the system. Although it didn't start as easily.
I went back into check the timing again to make sure it was still correct and it is. While doing so an odd thing happened, when I unplug the fuel line to take the tank off, there is unusually high pressure on the fuel line. It gushes fuel when I separate the connector, normally you get just a little fuel, but this will soak a shop rag. This happened the other two times I removed the tank after the doing the first valve check. The very first time I took the tank off, it was the normal few drops no crazy high pressure.
Is it possible I have a fuel injector(s) stuck open?
get out and ride! IBA #54706
- raYzerman
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Re: Valve Adjustment Issue
Is this '06 or '14?
Valves, etc. sound good. Fuel line normal, just need to allow enough time for the pressure to dissipate.. No injector issue I think... check no wires pinched at right timing cover (I'd think not if you've been there twice). It sounds electrical, have you played with wires/connectors anywhere?
My guess is the ECU is not getting a throttle position input so it won't say "add fuel".... check TPS is connected and working, can check in DiAG. If a Gen3, the white connector top of fuel rail (I think red and black wires) go to a microswitch down on the throttle cam. Gen3 also has an acceleration position sensor under right half of TB's.
Valves, etc. sound good. Fuel line normal, just need to allow enough time for the pressure to dissipate.. No injector issue I think... check no wires pinched at right timing cover (I'd think not if you've been there twice). It sounds electrical, have you played with wires/connectors anywhere?
My guess is the ECU is not getting a throttle position input so it won't say "add fuel".... check TPS is connected and working, can check in DiAG. If a Gen3, the white connector top of fuel rail (I think red and black wires) go to a microswitch down on the throttle cam. Gen3 also has an acceleration position sensor under right half of TB's.
Keep yer stick on the ice........... (Red Green)
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.
- Auburn
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Re: Valve Adjustment Issue
its a gen 2 (2006)raYzerman wrote: ↑Sat Apr 13, 2019 7:56 am Is this '06 or '14?
Valves, etc. sound good. Fuel line normal, just need to allow enough time for the pressure to dissipate.. No injector issue I think... check no wires pinched at right timing cover (I'd think not if you've been there twice). It sounds electrical, have you played with wires/connectors anywhere?
My guess is the ECU is not getting a throttle position input so it won't say "add fuel".... check TPS is connected and working, can check in DiAG. If a Gen3, the white connector top of fuel rail (I think red and black wires) go to a microswitch down on the throttle cam. Gen3 also has an acceleration position sensor under right half of TB's.
I'll check the wires. I do have a frankentank on it, thought maybe the tank sealer might be degrading and clogging the injectors possibly.
get out and ride! IBA #54706
- raYzerman
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Re: Valve Adjustment Issue
You can go into DiAG and in the sensor activation section, can pulse the injectors.. of course if you pull them out, should be able to see the spray... if you have the fuel system primed up with pressure. There are injector screen.grommet kits for cheap, for Yammie 150 GT outboards.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FUEL-INJECTOR- ... 5d64009140
However, all the injectors would have to be an issue for no revs above idle at all... it is a bit of a mystery. I still think it's something electrical...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FUEL-INJECTOR- ... 5d64009140
However, all the injectors would have to be an issue for no revs above idle at all... it is a bit of a mystery. I still think it's something electrical...
Keep yer stick on the ice........... (Red Green)
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.
- raYzerman
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Re: Valve Adjustment Issue
double post.... how does that happen....
Keep yer stick on the ice........... (Red Green)
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.
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- Hppants
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Re: Valve Adjustment Issue
What about disconnecting the PC5 just to eliminate an electrical or electronic issue with that?
"I guess it comes down to a simple choice, really. Get busy living. Or get busy dying."
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- Auburn
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Re: Valve Adjustment Issue
I did that before I posted this up to ask for help. I had the same thought too. What do they say, great minds think alike
get out and ride! IBA #54706
- Auburn
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Re: Valve Adjustment Issue
I went through and emptied the fuel tank, pulled the fuel pump assembly, everything looked good, no crud in the tank. Checked all the connectors, ran through the diagnostics, had the computer test each injector (diag 36, 37, 38, 39 then turn the kill switch off and then back on - fires each injector 5 times and you can hear the click audibly each time.) Used the diagnostic test to check and test all sensors, and other devices that it can do. All checked out. I had no codes being thrown before I started either.
put in new fuel about 3 gallons. put her all back together. Fired right up, revved like normal. Let it run for about 5 minutes enough to get 4 bars on the temp gauge. Now I'm letting it sit to draw antifreeze out of the overflow bottle to ensure the system is full.
I'll do a throttle body synch after it cools off in a couple of hours.
Not sure if it was fuel being old, not enough, or a connector not fully seated. I didn't find any particles in the fuel when I dumped it out into a clean oil catch pan. But you never know.
Thanks for everyones ideas.
put in new fuel about 3 gallons. put her all back together. Fired right up, revved like normal. Let it run for about 5 minutes enough to get 4 bars on the temp gauge. Now I'm letting it sit to draw antifreeze out of the overflow bottle to ensure the system is full.
I'll do a throttle body synch after it cools off in a couple of hours.
Not sure if it was fuel being old, not enough, or a connector not fully seated. I didn't find any particles in the fuel when I dumped it out into a clean oil catch pan. But you never know.
Thanks for everyones ideas.
Hppants and wheatonFJR loved this
get out and ride! IBA #54706
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Re: Valve Adjustment Issue
Wow. That's a mystery...but I hope that it is solved and working good for you. You've depended on ole trusty for some awesome trips, let's hope she continues to do well for you!
Auburn loved this
boatanchor, 3rd class.
- raYzerman
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Re: Valve Adjustment Issue
Perhaps a little water in the fuel? That's why I use Seafoam as a stabilizer... has isopropanol in it. Glad you got it all sorted!! Yeah, maybe run a tankful and I hope it's all good to go!!
Auburn loved this
Keep yer stick on the ice........... (Red Green)
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.