It’s that tire time again

[Night Fly 57]

I’m on second set of Pirelli Angel GT spew A Tire’s and wondering what’s next. I’ll listen if you point

[Night Fly 57]

I’m running on my second set of Pirelli Angel GT A spec tires. I’m wondering which direction to take next. I have typically gotten 10K miles out of them. Mixed riding routes. I will gladly take suggestions. Are there any Michellin riders out there that have transitioned from the Nigel GT

[extrememarine]

I have 5,000 miles on a set of Dunlap Roadsmart 3's. They have life left in them, which is significant for me as a set of tires is typically ready to be replaced by 4k miles. Dunlap has a $75 rebate offer running right now, putting the cost of a set around $220.

Wayne

[raYzerman]

For you US guys, where is a good (price) place to buy RS3's? I need to buy a set and have them ready for a tar change mid trip.....

[extrememarine]

For you US guys, where is a good (price) place to buy RS3's? I need to buy a set and have them ready for a tar change mid trip.....

I've been using www.americanmototire.com.

$298 - $75 rebate = $223 delivered.

Sent from the Tapatalk app...

[Hppants]

Rockymountain ATV is always within a few bucks of the cheapest I can find online. And their "bonus bucks" or whatever they call it - are generous.

[0face]

Rockymountain ATV is always within a few bucks of the cheapest I can find online. And their "bonus bucks" or whatever they call it - are generous.

Yeah, what dumbass said.

[raYzerman]

Thanks, gents. Very helpful.

[HotRodZilla]

What is the other part of Rocky Mountain ATV's site? Is it Dennis Kirk? Either place is my go-to for tires. They're very helpful with rebate paperwork.

[Cav47]

Part of me wants to buy a new set of Shinkos for the Canadian trip. I better not though. The border patrol will certainly ask about declaring unsafe tires at the checkpoint.

I might go ahead and buy a real set of tires. At 223 for the Dunlop’s, that is getting near the Shinko price of 200. Just think if I ride on something besides the Shinkos, I might be able to ride less slow.

As Wayne pointed out at Busts house, the rear is getting a flat spot. Might have something to do with 1200 sucky miles to and from SEO and Owosso.

[Festus]

I got a set of GT Angel’s, non A Spec for $300 Plus $50 rebate, so $250.

[Prestone]

I got a set of GT Angel’s, non A Spec for $300 Plus $50 rebate, so $250.

I want know to makes the "A-spec" worth 50 dollars more over the standard Pirelli Angel GT.

[silverback]

I got a set of GT Angel’s, non A Spec for $300 Plus $50 rebate, so $250.

I want know to makes the "A-spec" worth 50 dollars more over the standard Pirelli Angel GT.

Don't they have extra plies for the bigger ST bikes? I thought that was the cause for the extra. I know the load rated rears on the Michelins seem to be damn near stiff enough in the side wall to mimic a run flat (and are equally as difficult to replace!)

[HotRodZilla]

I got a set of GT Angel’s, non A Spec for $300 Plus $50 rebate, so $250.

I want know to makes the "A-spec" worth 50 dollars more over the standard Pirelli Angel GT.

Don't they have extra plies for the bigger ST bikes? I thought that was the cause for the extra. I know the load rated rears on the Michelins seem to be damn near stiff enough in the side wall to mimic a run flat (and are equally as difficult to replace!)

Yes, something like that. Stiffer sidewall for heavier bikes. Lots of owners have reported no significant difference in handling and tread-wear is the same. Initially, people were hoping the GT, A-spec, or whatever tire was rated for the heavier bikes would provide longer tread life but that doesn't happen. Probably no reason to pay the extra, and fight the fight to mount them.

[raYzerman]

I wouldn't pay for GT, A, etc. Small gain in mileage is not worth the extra in my experience. Heavier bike, I'd go for it. FJR ass end is light.

[Festus]

I kept asking everyone that would take my questions, what's the difference. I've always used the A Spec's. However, when you look at the tires, they are rated for the exact same speed and load. Other than the stiffer sidewall, everything rating wise was the same. So I tried the Non A Spec. So far, 1,500 miles into them, they appear just fine.

[wheatonFJR]

See...a tire thread with NO do a fooking search bs. Questions answered. Ongoing conversation civil.

[silverback]

See...a tire thread with NO do a fooking search bs. Questions answered. Ongoing conversation civil.

Pfft. Say something about darkside with no helmet if you're that bored.

As for A spec vs B spec, I get the price increase for added manufacturing expense. Do we need it on the FJR? I don't really think so. They all seem to wear out too fast.

[wheatonFJR]

I've been using the regular PR2 rear and regular T30 front and I have not seen any difference in ride quality. I understand that you DO notice the difference when putting new rubber on...I'd prefer not to work harder for no substantial benefit.

[ionbeam]

I'm an GT/A spec user, but I have an excuse Most of the real miles which go on my FJR are done with a pillion. Between the two of us and all the BS that we seem to drag along we are pretty close to the max vehicle weight. A trip to EOM typically ends up around 3.5k miles by the time we get home. A trip to CFR ends up around 2.5k miles. Vacations clock in around 4k miles. We put a lot of miles on a fully loaded bike so I opt for the GT/A type tires. In days gone past I have had the sidewall of a tire blow out (not weight related) and boy howdy, does instant deflation in the middle of a 4 lane road during packed rush hour traffic get your attention! I have no desire to try that with a passenger under any circumstances. There is no real need for a GT/A tire on the FJR unless you are loading 'er up or perhaps pulling a trailer. A non GT/A tire should have a more compliant ride.

I mount my own tires using old school tire irons so the stiff sidewall tires can be knuckle busters to put on and take off. I have learned the importance of keeping the beads of the tire in the center of the wheel for all on/off procedures; as long as you do that the tires aren't too bad to deal with. Also, the sun is your friend, send them out for a good long, tan hot soak in the sun if you can. When I'm changing tires I have no pride, I say to pillion, "If you want to go to EOM, then come help keep the tire beads centered while I swear, sweat and pry." She does willingly do that but time has shown that I'll sweat and pry and leave the swearing to her, we all do what we are best at

As far as what tire? I do recommend using them. Some may wear out faster than others, some may handle better than others but modern tires don't fail unexpectedly regardless of brand. Some people like Fred W run a mix, different brands between the front and rear for a blend of handling and wear improvements. I have tried a bunch of different brands and model tires, settling on the PR series of tires as the best compromise. I get ~12k miles or more per set. I like the first 50% of the tire's wear and handling. Unlike a lot of brands. I'm reserved about the next 25% handling feel. I don't like the heavy truck feel during the last 25% of the tire tread but that represents 3-4k miles. During the last 25%, the tires stick well, handle heavy rain just fine but you have to put the power into the power steering.