Lowered 2006 FJR

[Pat Mitch]

I have a used 2006 FJR that I bought a couple of years ago that I believe has been lowered. How do I tell if indeed it’s been lowered and how do I remove the lowering kit. Do I just remove something or do I need to replace something.

Much appreciated


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[wheatonFJR]

Where are you located? I didn't see it on your profile. Maybe there is an FJR owner you can compare things with.

[Pat Mitch]

Where are you located? I didn't see it on your profile. Maybe there is an FJR owner you can compare things with.

20 minutes south of Seattle




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[ionbeam]

On your hands & knees. Look at the bottom of the shock. There will be two ~9 inch long flat steel strips (street named dog bones) which are connected to the shock pivot. If they are OEM, they will be ugly flat stamped steel. If they are aftermarket they will have the maker's name on them or they will be fancy rods, sometimes they are adjustable rods.

The stock Gen2 dog bones measure 8 5/8" overall, or 7.5" between bolt centers. If you have aftermarket dog bones to lower the bike they will be roughly 1" longer.

Tip 1: Look at the front forks where they exit the top of the triple-tree. If the fork tubes are flush with the top the bike hasn't been lowered in front. If the tubes extend 1/2" or more it has been lowered.

Tip 2: If you can put the bike on the center stand --- it hasn't been lowered. If you have to put the rear wheel on a 2x6 to put it on the center stand there is a good chance that it has been lowered.

If it has been lowered you will have to replace the dog bones with OEM length dog bones.

[wheatonFJR]

...if you find it has been lowered, there's a chance the original owner has it laying around. (So yer saying there's a chance?)

[Pat Mitch]

On your hands & knees. Look at the bottom of the shock. There will be two ~9 inch long flat steel strips (street named dog bones) which are connected to the shock pivot. If they are OEM, they will be ugly flat stamped steel. If they are aftermarket they will have the maker's name on them or they will be fancy rods, sometimes they are adjustable rods.

The stock Gen2 dog bones measure 8 5/8" overall, or 7.5" between bolt centers. If you have aftermarket dog bones to lower the bike they will be roughly 1" longer.

Tip 1: Look at the front forks where they exit the top of the triple-tree. If the fork tubes are flush with the top the bike hasn't been lowered in front. If the tubes extend 1/2" or more it has been lowered.

Tip 2: If you can put the bike on the center stand --- it hasn't been lowered. If you have to put the rear wheel on a 2x6 to put it on the center stand there is a good chance that it has been lowered.

If it has been lowered you will have to replace the dog bones with OEM length dog bones.

Ok my do bones are 7 1/2 inches from center of bolts.
But I do have to do tip 2. It’s a pain to get it up on the center stand.

Just to be clear are the lowering dog bones shorter or longer?


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[ionbeam]

Umm, longer dog bones = lower suspension.

7 1/2" center to center is OEM. Be sure the front forks are flush too.

The OEM suspension seems to be toast some time after 38K miles. Time for suspension upgrade?

[Pat Mitch]

Umm, longer dog bones = lower suspension.

7 1/2" center to center is OEM. Be sure the front forks are flush too.

The OEM suspension seems to be toast some time after 38K miles. Time for suspension upgrade?

There’s an idea, got any recommendations, I have just turned 41k miles


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[Auburn]

On your hands & knees. Look at the bottom of the shock. There will be two ~9 inch long flat steel strips (street named dog bones) which are connected to the shock pivot. If they are OEM, they will be ugly flat stamped steel. If they are aftermarket they will have the maker's name on them or they will be fancy rods, sometimes they are adjustable rods.

The stock Gen2 dog bones measure 8 5/8" overall, or 7.5" between bolt centers. If you have aftermarket dog bones to lower the bike they will be roughly 1" longer.

Tip 1: Look at the front forks where they exit the top of the triple-tree. If the fork tubes are flush with the top the bike hasn't been lowered in front. If the tubes extend 1/2" or more it has been lowered.

Tip 2: If you can put the bike on the center stand --- it hasn't been lowered. If you have to put the rear wheel on a 2x6 to put it on the center stand there is a good chance that it has been lowered.

If it has been lowered you will have to replace the dog bones with OEM length dog bones.

Ok my do bones are 7 1/2 inches from center of bolts.
But I do have to do tip 2. It’s a pain to get it up on the center stand.

Just to be clear are the lowering dog bones shorter or longer?


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If your still unsure, come to the FJR tech meet in Auburn 10/14. We can verify for you. PM me if you would like to come.

[Pat Mitch]

Thanks I’d like to come


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[SLK50]

My ‘06 wasn’t lowered but it squatted in corners enough to
routinely drag the footpegs.
I determined I needed to raise the front
and rear of the bike.
This lead to stiffer fork springs, a new ( Gen 3 ) rear shock
with its stiffer spring and a switch to a 190/55 rear tire.
The combination ( along with new tires ) resulted in
delightfully light and precise handling without the
annoying distraction of dragging footpegs.

[HotRodZilla]

On an un-lowered bike, center-stand issues are most likely user error. This bike seems to cause more finesse issues than most. So, proper deployment of the center-stand:

Standing on the left side of the bike, put your left hand on the left bar and right hand under the seat, in the "grab hole" with right food on the CS lever. You can use your left foot if you want. That's not important. What's important is whichever foot you use can give a firm push.

Push the CS down until the left side touches the ground. Then push the bike away from you towards it's right, until the right foot of the CS touches the floor/ground.

Once both CS feet are touching, push down firmly on the lever and the bike should pop up. You MAY have to pull up with the "grab hole" slightly.

That's it. However, until you get the hang of it, it seems more difficult than it really is. Also, a 190/55/17 tire on the rear makes it slightly easier, because the bike is slightly higher.

[Pat Mitch]

On your hands & knees. Look at the bottom of the shock. There will be two ~9 inch long flat steel strips (street named dog bones) which are connected to the shock pivot. If they are OEM, they will be ugly flat stamped steel. If they are aftermarket they will have the maker's name on them or they will be fancy rods, sometimes they are adjustable rods.

The stock Gen2 dog bones measure 8 5/8" overall, or 7.5" between bolt centers. If you have aftermarket dog bones to lower the bike they will be roughly 1" longer.

Tip 1: Look at the front forks where they exit the top of the triple-tree. If the fork tubes are flush with the top the bike hasn't been lowered in front. If the tubes extend 1/2" or more it has been lowered.

Tip 2: If you can put the bike on the center stand --- it hasn't been lowered. If you have to put the rear wheel on a 2x6 to put it on the center stand there is a good chance that it has been lowered.

If it has been lowered you will have to replace the dog bones with OEM length dog bones.

Ok my do bones are 7 1/2 inches from center of bolts.
But I do have to do tip 2. It’s a pain to get it up on the center stand.

Just to be clear are the lowering dog bones shorter or longer?


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If your still unsure, come to the FJR tech meet in Auburn 10/14. We can verify for you. PM me if you would like to come.

Thanks got your email, but for some reason I cannot reply back. Email me the time, thanks


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