Time for 30,000 mile Service

[Hppants]

Ok folks, it's time for Pants to do some maintenance on my 2014:

1. Valve Check
2. Spark Plugs
3. Coolant Change
4. Fork Oil Change
5. Engine Oil Change
6. Check air filter.

For Valve check, I'm going to order the coolant pipe O-rings, a coolant drain bolt washer, and a timing chain cover gasket (just in case). Not planning to replace the cam cover gskt as it is usually ok to re-use. Anything else I need?

Going back with OEM plugs

How much fork oil goes into each tube? What is the consensus for replacement oil? I believe my gen 1 took the Honda 7 weight??/

Any other tips?

[BkerChuck]

The coolant tube O-rings are a 2-116 N70 available at any hydraulic shop or supply house for only a few cents each. I work for a hydraulic shop and matched them up against the OEM.

[raYzerman]

Assuming it's an A, left fork 716 ml/24.21 oz., but use the level instead..... 106 mm with no spring, tube fully compressed. Right side is 694 ml/23.46 oz., 90 mm with no spring fully compressed.... do not overfill. Slightly larger number for the fork level is OK, just means a wee bit more air gap (which some prefer).

[Hppants]

BC - thanks for the 0-ring tip. We have a local rubber and gasket company.

Thanks Ray - I can always count on you for (free) technical support. Which fork oil do you recommend and which weight?

The parts breakdown on the crankcase Cover 1 "fiche" shows the timing cover gasket as the "oil pump gasket" - is that right? It certainly looks like the right one.

I feel like I'm missing something to check the valves, but can't put my finger on it. I know that if I need shims, I'll have to order the right sizes. But I'm thinking there must be something else....

[raYzerman]

Thanks Ray - I can always count on you for (free) technical support.

Oh don't worry, one day yer gonna pay, bwaaaahhhhaaaa!!

OEM fork oil is basically 5W, you can stick with that if you feel damping is OK, or go up to 10W. But, I'm kinda partial to mixing a 5 and 10 equally to get a sorta 7.5 (if you can't find 7.5). Basically, I stick to less than 10 if I have not fully closed down the damping screws (I never have). I have not felt compelled to go to 10W.

If you're careful, you'll not likely need the timing cover gasket, I've not replaced one yet. May get some slight separation, just put it back together, and you can use some RTV if needed. There is no oil pressure against it.

I'd even stretch that valve check out another 10-15k if you want, but OTOH, nice to have a known base line.

Shims available at Rocky Mountain ATV for $2 each, but you'll have downtime waiting for them (they are prompt).

[bungie4]

I'm due for the 30K service on mine as well. I'd do it myself, except no garage anymore (but I'm not bitter.)

[raYzerman]

I'm due for the 30K service on mine as well. I'd do it myself, except no garage anymore (but I'm not bitter.)

I have a busy summer, but second or third week of July, why not come visit your sister.... I'll give you a route to get you off slab around Orillia for a decent ride down.

[Hppants]

I thought I'd ask for the torque values for the following fasterners, if anyone has this info:

(foot pounds, please)

1. Triple clamp bolts (top and bottom)

2. Fork cap

3. Cam cover bolts

4. "T-Bar" bolts

5. Water pump coolant drain bolt.

Thanks.

[gixxerjasen]

Fred at the other forum says " I found them at Home Depot and the best size matches were #14's for the two head connections and #17 for the thermostat"

I used this information to get my new o-rings the last time I did the valve check. Worked perfect.

[raYzerman]

I thought I'd ask for the torque values for the following fasterners, if anyone has this info:

(foot pounds, please)

1. Triple clamp bolts (top and bottom) - 19 top, 17 bottom... tighten alternately until torque is reached on both.

2. Fork cap - snug, seated only... O-ring holds it as well as top triple tree pinch bolt.

3. Cam cover bolts - whazzthat? valve cover or engine side cover, or??

4. "T-Bar" bolts - 27

5. Water pump coolant drain bolt.- 8.7, but it's a copper washer, so snug until you feel it's snug.

Thanks.

Answers in bold....... you need a service manual..........

[Hppants]

Thanks Ray - I do need the FSM, but truthfully, once I get this info, this is the extent of what I will likely every do (PM only).

The "cam cover" is the valve cover, I guess. My dad taught me (perhaps incorrectly) when I was a kid that if the engine has an OHC design, then this is a camshaft cover. If not, then it's a valve cover.

[raYzerman]

Valve cover shoulder screws are through a rubber grommet and seat on hard metal.... nicely snug will do.

[Hppants]

OK - I started tearing it down and had to stop for other plans. I'll get back to this on Tuesday. In the meantime, a few questions for the experts (Ray):

1. The wiring harness on the right (#4 cylinder) side of the cam cover is attached - see picture below. Do I remove the screw at the end of my finger and the bracket and just push it away? IIRC, the harness just sat on top the cam cover for the gen 1



2. What do I do with the throttle cables? See image below - I don't want to lose my adjustment if I can help it.

[raYzerman]

I assume the little screw is the one that holds the Cylinder Identification Sensor clip... yes remove and move the clip/wire so you can get at the front rightmost valve cover screw. The big harness is tight, see if you can loosen it up/push it off to the right and up, or somehow out of the way so you can lift the valve cover up..

See the two internal hex screws holding the cables to the lower bracket..... remove them both, get the cables out of the way. No adjustment affected.

[Hppants]

Thanks Ray - always a big help.

Valve specs hasn't changed - correct? 0.006"-0.009" for the intake, 0.007"-0.010" for exhaust?

[wheatonFJR]

Thanks Ray - always a big help.

Valve specs hasn't changed - correct? 0.006"-0.009" for the intake, 0.007"-0.010" for exhaust?

Do you have a manwell?

[Hppants]

Nope - can u tell?

Edit - at one point, I looked for the Yamaha FSM but just couldn't find one available. There was some scuttlebutt on the other sandbox about it out of print for some time. Maybe it's available now. But the truth is - this is all I'm going to do. Regular fluid changes, brake pads, valve check. I've got the YES warranty for everything else. When my bike hits 5 years old, it's going to have about 80K on it. More than likely, I'm going to get another one then.

[Hppants]

OK - pretty much done. It was an easy experience, the 4th time I've done a valve check on an FJR, but the 1st time on a Gen 3. Couple of observations:

1. Having the coil on the spark plug cover with the electrical wire to disconnect was terrific. Much easier than dealing with traditional spark plug wires.

2. I had a small packet of "radiator hose grease" I got from the auto parts house years ago. I used a dab of that on the cooling pipe O-rings and the inside of the big hose from the radiator and it helped a great deal in re-installing the cooling pipe.

3. In addition to removing the 2 screws on the throttle cable engine housing described above, you have to remove the throttle cables from the throttle tube. This allows enough slack in the cables to get them totally out of the way. If you don't do this, you won't be able to get the cam cover out without messing up the rubber gasket. Before re-installing the throttle cables in the throttle tube, you must remove the front brake handle.

4. I used a very small dab of red RTV gasket maker in about 10 places on the cam cover after cleaning and drying it and the rubber gasket very well. Then I let it sit on my work bench for a couple hours to allow the RTV to set up. This kind of glued the gasket to the cover and greatly helped keep it in place while I placed the cam cover back on the cylinder head.

5. Having a 3rd hand to help hold the wiring harness and the throttle cables out of the way when re-installing the cam cover is GOLD.

[Redfish]

I am going to just trade my FJR in on a BMW R1200RT. According to the Internet they are perfect right off the showroom floor.

[wheatonFJR]

I am going to just trade my FJR in on a BMW R1200RT. According to the Internet they are perfect right off the showroom floor.

Noted...for posterity.