Clutch Question

[0face]

My clutch seems to catch when I start the bike in first gear when it's cold. The bike wants to move forward. The lever is adjusted all the way out.

Any ideas why it would be doing this? Somebody suggested the plates might need lubing? about 120K on the bike.

[Twigg]

Clutch plates could use a clean ...

To some extent, they all do it except the latest ones. It gets to be a problem where you can't select neutral from 2nd or 1st gear with the engine running, because the clutch drags badly. It is caused by insufficient oil reaching the plates and they get gummed up.

You don't need to soak the plates, just clean them and be liberal with the oil when putting them back.

The problem will return. If you want a complete fix, install the slipper clutch from the '16

ps ... changing the clutch fluid can help too.

[0face]

I've changed the Clutch fluid... Any DIY's out there?

[MrZappo]

Relatively easy to do. Just have a spare gasket on hand. And put plates back as they came out after cleaning them and slathering them in oil.

[0face]

Hey, I found this...

[bungie4]

Pump the clutch a few times before starting (if in gear), or a few times before you drop it into gear.

[raYzerman]

First make sure the clutch fluid has been flushed and bled, try it again. FJR's like this to be optimal, so do once a year.
Take your clutch lever off and inspect the brass bushing. This too should be optimal. If worn, replace. Use silicone grease on it.
These two things will ensure maximum stroke of the clutch slave.
It's easy enough to clean and oil the clutch plates, can be done in under an hour. The video's not bad. Don't worry about lining up those pink marks, 'tis of no consequence.

[Twigg]

First make sure the clutch fluid has been flushed and bled, try it again. FJR's like this to be optimal, so do once a year.
Take your clutch lever off and inspect the brass bushing. This too should be optimal. If worn, replace. Use silicone grease on it.
These two things will ensure maximum stroke of the clutch slave.
It's easy enough to clean and oil the clutch plates, can be done in under an hour. The video's not bad. Don't worry about lining up those pink marks, 'tis of no consequence.

In any event, you might not find any pink marks.

My clutch is, I believe, original. Only one plate has a pink mark.

[Red]

My clutch seems to catch when I start the bike in first gear when it's cold. The bike wants to move forward. The lever is adjusted all the way out. Any ideas why it would be doing this? Somebody suggested the plates might need lubing? about 120K on the bike.

Oface,

The clutch plates can stick together when cold, for most bikes. Start the engine in Neutral, and allow the engine to warm up to some reasonable level. For me, that is three or more "feathers" on the Temperature gauge, where the bike normally runs the road with four "feathers" showing, fully warmed up. Pull the clutch handle and hold it, then blip the throttle a few times, but not too aggressively. Still holding the clutch handle "disengaged," hold the rear brake to prevent any movement by the bike, let the engine slow to idle, and drop the bike into gear. It should go into gear with a nice click.

If getting into gear makes a serious clunk noise then, the clutch plates may need to be cleaned and oiled. Search for "FJR clutch soak." This is a simple DIY procedure. Fast and/or clutchless shifting may cause the clutch plates to become dry and "sticky," IMHO. I hold the clutch disengaged, in gear, any time I am stopped briefly in traffic, such as at short red lights or stop signs. I usually only shift to Neutral and release the clutch handle when traffic behind me is also stopped, so I won't need to evade being rear-ended by the drunk or texting cage driver behind me. I have not had a problem with a "sticky" clutch so far, and I credit this to running the engine in gear, clutch disengaged, whenever I am stopped briefly.

Upgrading the clutch assembly to the new "slipper" hardware gives you the opportunity to replace the old clutch hub with a new "drilled" version, which oils the clutch plates better. I believe the existing clutch hub could be drilled to resemble the new "drilled" version for the same benefit, but feel free to use the Yamaha upgraded clutch hub. You will need to log in to the site to see the pix:
http://www.fjrowners.com/forums/970490-post11.html

[gixxerjasen]

Don't forget mcatrophy's writeup on the soak procedure. Same as a cleanup procedure really.

http://atrophy.lock.net/pi/20100320/index.php

At 120k it might also be time for new plates. It's all pretty easy though, after all...

Changing a clutch is so easy even a six year old can do it.

[Steel_Gin]

I had the same problem on my '12 the first and second year I had it; yes two clutch soaks under warranty. What I wish I had known was already suggested and I haven't had a problem since, it also would have avoided taking it apart twice.

Let it warm up to one bar, pull the clutch in, rev to about 3k three or four times, release the clutch, pull the clutch back in and put it in gear. I haven't had a problem since.

If the problem comes back a slipper clutch will be installed.

[gixxerjasen]

Says the guy with a fancy pants clutch lever.