2006 abs issue

[Travis]

Hello, I am new here and need a little help. I have an 06 I was wondering if someone could help with an abs issue. My light intermittently comes on while riding and sometimes I can feel the brakes start to lock up. The other day I could feel them dragging and they got so hot I could smell them. Sometimes I can feel the abs pulse during normal braking before they drag The light resets after restarting. It has about 17m miles and 500 since I put tires on. I was very careful about the sensors and flushed fluid while I was at it. I bought it used and it was obviously never done. The fluid wasnt terrible, but not great. I would say dark Amber. The pedal is great and there is no air. There is some drag on the rear brake shaft but nowhere enough to keep light or brakes on. I have done some reading and found where others have had issues with abs unit acting this way and the sucker is super expensive. I found used ones on eBay for 150 us and up, but is the compatibility ok for 2006-2012, or just 2006-08. Does the local matter, say one from Canada programmed same as US? I've read both, so I am confused. Is there anything else that could be causing the issue beforehand? This part does not look fun to change.

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[Twigg]

There seems to be a lot mixed up in there.

Dark Amber brake fluid is horrible, and a sign of years of neglect. Remember, that fluid is almost clear when it goes in, and should never get worse than a pale yellow color.

Brakes should not be "nearly locking up", unless you are exerting almost maximum braking, and that is pretty rare for any of us. Neither should they br "sticking on" or binding at all.

Sounds like you have a brake system that is overdue a full overhaul, and you need some expert advice before doing this.

You can't even begin to assess the ABS system until the brakes are working properly from a mechanical point of view. So I'd start there.

[HotRodZilla]

Travis, if you have the knowhow, disassemble your calipers and rebuild them. Not expensive, and not super difficult. It sounds like you have an issue or two going on.

1st, I'd suspect your calipers are sticking, so the pistons are not retracting, leading to the heat. Hell, a good cleaning might fix that problem. Worth a shot.

2nd, what your describing is VERY common among owners thay do not know to service the rear brake pedal. Take it apart at the foot peg, clean it and lube it. Even though it may seem free, you said there is "drag" on the pedal, which may be enough to cause your problem.

It honestly doesn't seem like an ABS block issue. That problem has been the block freezing up and simply losing ABS function at the rear. However, the blocks all the way up to 12 should be the same. Not sure about 13 and up. All that changed during the GenII phase was the wheel sensors, so a 2008 wheel will not work on your 2006.

Hope that helps. Also, if you don't have them, get a set of SpeedBleeders. They make the brake and clutch service very easy, and with these issues, you may have to try a few times before you get the actual fix.

Good luck.

[Twigg]

Just a note on Speedbleeders, and not to contradict HRZ ...

They work great for routine fluid flushes, although I've really never had an issue with the regular bleeders.

The one situation where they don't work, is when you have broken into the system and introduced a lot of air. The reason they don't work is that with air in the system they cannot develop enough pressure to open the bleeder ... it can be very frustrating.

By all means use them for routine maintenance, but you will need a different method to fill an empty system. Vacuum works well.

[Travis]

Thank you both, I'll have to look at those items, starting with the rear brake and take it for a ride and pay more attention. It seems like the brakes are fine, then all of the sudden drag for some reason after going down the road a mile or so. Maybe they were dragging a little and the heat built up causing more and more drag and eventually I notice it? Would this cause the light to come on?

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[HotRodZilla]

Yes, the calipers heating up will cause any moisture to boil, and then lead to increased pressure. Your symptoms are consistent with the brakes being constantly applied for one reason or another.

Also, there is a procedure to activate your ABS block for testing or flushing. You can do that, and know, at a standstill if your block is having issues.

One of the.other guys who does this can come along and give instructions. Or you can Google search FOR abs block testing. Maybe activation instead of testing. May shoot you to FJRForum, which has lots of good technical info.

As far as issues with the SpeedBleeders, I have never had to fill an empty system, so Twig is probably right.

[raYzerman]

Travis, where are you located, maybe we have someone nearby. I am not quite understanding all your symptoms, but agree you have to completely go over the brake system before you declare an ABS issue. It is cheap to rebuild the calipers, seals are likely hardening with age. Definitely lube that rear pedal no matter what. Let us know what the status is after that.

ABS sensors can give false signals when there is aluminum corrosion build-up at the sensor holder. When you remove a sensor, you should see how the plastic isolates it from metal and there should be no build-up of corrosion causing contact. Clean the sensor and housing, and a dab of silicone grease will deter future corrosion.

The ABS unit is unique to '06-'07, system was changed in '08. If your rear ABS is not working, that's a sign you need to cycle it... which you should do at every fluid change, which I also would do annually on FJR's. See link to ABS test method.

http://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.ph ... bs-system/

[HotRodZilla]

Ray, are you sure the "system" was changed in '08? I thought it was just the sensors and maybe different programming, but with the same ABS blocks and reservoirs.

Now I have to go look.

[Twigg]

Now I have to go look.

Doncha just hate it when that happens?

[Travis]

I took the pedal off and cleaned it and lubed it because it was dry and hanging up. I also took the sensors out and cleaned those. There was some light oxidation on the flanges, so I cleaned those too and tried bleeding again. A few bubbles from the from upper right. This is my first abs bike and I guess I really didnt really realize that abs bikes were more finicky than cars, and the bike is new to me so I really don't know what the hell I'm doing lol. Its never been messed with other than oil changes, which I suppose is good in some ways, but very bad in others. But...I've been wanted one for a few years and the price, mileage and condition were right, so I'll learn about it as I go.
I didn't get much sleep last night so I didn't ride it in today. I'll try it out tomorrow. Thank you for your suggestions.

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[raYzerman]

My memory says, Gen1, then Gen2 '06-'07, new pump/sensors/sensor ring system in '08 (to '12), then new pump in '13 (although pictorial still looks the same as '08-'12). Some other components were shared (prop valve, metering valve?)... but enough to say there were changes. After '08, we seem to hear less/very little about ABS issues. Bottom line, keep them flushed out every year, throw that 2 year Yammy fluid change recommendation out the window.

[wheatonFJR]

Yes. Follow the Canadian and see where ya end up.

(Timmy's)

[Harald]

The ABS light will come on if your rear brake pedal is sticking because it doesn't expect the rear brake light to be on continuously. Too late to check now that you've cleaned and lubed the pedal, but it's easy to check a dirty pedal by very carefully pushing the pedal with your hand and trying to get it to hang up (watch the brake light while doing this). I'll bet your fine on your ABS "problem" now.