Garmin 595 Install question

[CraigRegs]

Just received my new Garmin 595. Was a bit surprised by all the wires extending from the harness connected to the mount:




> Power + and -, I get that.
> USB port is a nice feature, but the cable's longer than I need (5' from the point where the cables diverge from one to many) . Will have to coil up some of that.
> And then there are the 3 audio jacks: (1) 2.5mm female and (2) 3.5mm females. (Each 22" long.)

I don't need the audio jacks. So where am I supposed to put all that extra cable and three attached jacks? Anyone care to share photos/description of their install?

I prefer to run power direct to the battery so I always have power to the GPS. I have an underseat fuse block but it's switched power. My battery compartment is a bit crowded with relays and leads for the Clearwaters, aux horn relay, and fuse block relay. I could *maybe* stuff these audio jacks in there somewhere.

Cutting them off is a last resort, but that prevents me from ever putting them into service should I find that need.

And with all that wiring running to the mount, I can't just cut it to custom length and mount SAE connections like I did with my 550, so I can easily remove the mount. The new one will be a permanent fixture.

[tominca]

My wires are routed under the tank to the seat area where I placed the USB just clear of the seat and cables connect to an AutoComm. How you route yours depends on where you want to use the leads. You can get the wires under the tank, and there should be enough room to tie them off out of the way. Lots of people do cut-off the leads if they don't plan to use them. The USB itself is basically just a charging port. AFAIK it does not transmit data, voice or music to the GPS. If you are all setup for BT and wireless, cut the wire. You'll never need it.

[raYzerman]

I have mine on a dash shelf so the wires don't reach the seat. They are coiled up under the tank, with power from the under seat fuse panel (unswitched).

[CraigRegs]

Edited first post to add photos and cable lengths.

[Steel_Gin]

Great post!! I have the same problem and will be keeping an eye on this.

[Steel_Gin]

I have mine on a dash shelf so the wires don't reach the seat. They are coiled up under the tank, with power from the under seat fuse panel (unswitched).

Since they are coiled up under the tank did you put something around them to protect them from the heat? Or does it not get hot enough to worry about?

[tominca]

Engine heat won't damage the wires. My wiring harness comes from the mount on a RAM-Bone mount and follows the throttle cable opening which is tight for the wiring union. The electric wires continue behind the seat along the frame to a FuzeBlock under the pillon seat. The USB emerges with the heated gear coax at the front of the seat, and is available for a USB cable to my tank bag. The input and output cables are not needed since the phone/music connects to the GPS by BT. The wires are just tied off to the wiring harness under the tank at the front.

[raYzerman]

They lay on top of the insulation pad, so don't get hot.

[CraigRegs]

Engine heat won't damage the wires. My wiring harness comes from the mount on a RAM-Bone mount and follows the throttle cable opening which is tight for the wiring union. The electric wires continue behind the seat along the frame to a FuzeBlock under the pillon seat. The USB emerges with the heated gear coax at the front of the seat, and is available for a USB cable to my tank bag. The input and output cables are not needed since the phone/music connects to the GPS by BT. The wires are just tied off to the wiring harness under the tank at the front.

The light bulb finally clicked on with that post, Tom. I'm following this general install, but I"ll have the USB up by the left bar near the GPS, and will use the audio-in jack for my RD. It will be tied up near the right bar where the RD sits. And all that excess cabling will sit in the cavity just behind the steering head on top of the engine heat shielding. Pics to come.

This is what I love about the forums. I was ready to pack the 595 up and send it back, but the collective shall provide.

[tominca]

It's a nice unit once you work out the logistics Craig. I'm sure you will have a good install. Let me know if you actually get a RD signal from the audio input. On my 590 unit, the use of BT for the phone and music cuts all other input. Suggest you test before closing up.

[CraigRegs]

So wiring was really a non-event, once I figured out where to tuck all that extra cabling. Here's the Zumo mount by the clutch reservoir. I'm pointing to the USB port below it. Note that the USB port is powered only when the Zumo is on.


Here's the wad of extra cable to stuff somewhere.


Under the tank has plenty of room. Looking in from the right side of the bike. Red/black power lead running along the throttle cable path to the fuse block under the seat.


Power lead tied off, with a length of asphalt loom to protect where it runs over the stay holding the throttle cables.


I had the Audio In lead routed to the right handlebar, hoping to feed my RD audio into it. However, I discovered the 595 only passes ONE source at a time: Internal MP3, Bluetooth, Line In, etc. I'm using BT to pair the 595 to my Sena 20S, so the line-in is unavailable. I coiled it up with the rest of the orphans under the tank.

It seems to me, the bulk of that cabling could have been eliminated and the USB and audio jacks included in the Zumo mount. Then make more money selling cords to guys who want to use those features. Sure, it makes the mount larger, but so what? Just my $.02.

[Steel_Gin]

Big thanks for posting those pictures!! I just might be able to do this myself after all after seeing them.