BkerChuck wrote:Coworker had the LR4s on the fender and on mirror mounts on his 06. He recently swapped out the top lights for the new LR5s. I have a pair of Clearwater Erica's on mine and have to admit the LR5s are damn impressive for a lot less money. Check those out as well.
I just looked on the LEDrider site. I like the LX40 3inch version. Thanks for the heads up on these.
Your buddy has the LR4s on the Fender, That must be BRIGHT. I know that is the point, but I will be interested in learning how they are controlled and dimmed for oncoming traffic. I cannot imagine being able to run them on full power.
I often have found myself when I was not looking, nor did that discovery take place where I thought it would!
BkerChuck wrote:Coworker had the LR4s on the fender and on mirror mounts on his 06. He recently swapped out the top lights for the new LR5s. I have a pair of Clearwater Erica's on mine and have to admit the LR5s are damn impressive for a lot less money. Check those out as well.
I just looked on the LEDrider site. I like the LX40 3inch version. Thanks for the heads up on these.
Your buddy has the LR4s on the Fender, That must be BRIGHT. I know that is the point, but I will be interested in learning how they are controlled and dimmed for oncoming traffic. I cannot imagine being able to run them on full power.
Cav, Skene smart controller under the seat. Both sets of aux. lights run at around 40% brightness with the low beam. High beam switch acts as trigger to take all lights to full power. I have Denali D2Ds and Clearwater Ericas that work the same way.
Is the Skene Controler easy to install, cause I am a dummy in every way imagineable
I am actually shocked that the wiring harness that I made up actually works and the lights are still on, and that I even know which way to face when sitting on a motorcycle.
Fixed it for you my friend.
Never run out of real estate, traction and ideas all at the same time.
The Skene controller was pretty straight forward. We used the simplest of its settings opting for just one low power setting and then full power with the high beams. Hardest part was probably just my friend's OCD tendencies and trying to route the wires and connections in a way we were both happy with. It's actually got multiple ways of operating and I'm sure is capable of more than what we did with it. Trust me my electrical abilities are nothing to brag about either.
Is the Skene Controler easy to install, cause I am a dummy in every way imagineable
I am actually shocked that the wiring harness that I made up actually works and the lights are still on, and that I even know which way to face when sitting on a motorcycle.
Yesterday evening on the way home, I noticed the that the LEDs went dim when I pressed the horn. This intrigued me so I did it a few more times. I have PIAA horn if that matters. I pressed the horn a long time, maybe 4 seconds, and the GPS actually lost power for a second. As soon as I released the horn, the GPS came back on.
Any ideas as to why this is happening?
My accessories are all hooked up through a fuze block.
Thanks
I often have found myself when I was not looking, nor did that discovery take place where I thought it would!
It would be hard to imagine that the PIAA horn draws enough amperage to bring the bike voltage down below the GPS's minimum. If you have a volt meter, place the leads on the FuZE block battery connections. Then monitor the voltage while you press the horn and note the minimum voltage. Simulate the engine rpm when you noticed the lights dim (idle, 2,000 rpm, etc) during the test. Keep lights on , gps on, headlights on (high or low beam???), etc. IOW - duplicate the situation as best you can to see what the voltage is. My guess is that the voltage has to drop below 11.5 volts in order for that to be the problem. But you probably get the exact minimum voltage from the technical specifications for your GPS.
Then I'd start with checking and cleaning all connections. Start with the battery connections from the fuze block, then the battery connections at the fuze block, then any connection between the fuze block and horns, lights, and GPS. Any oxidation noted - buff the connection and make sure it is tight. Check both positive and negative connections.
"I guess it comes down to a simple choice, really. Get busy living. Or get busy dying."
- Andy Dufresne, Shawshank Redemption
I've seen weak connections do this sort of thing, but since you mentioned that the power drops specifically during horn activity, you might want to look at the +12v side going directly to the horns, I assume there's a relay in between there. It sounds like that leg of the circuit might be grounding out, causing it to short circuit to the bike's chassis when the horn relay is active, and dragging the voltage down. Look for bare wire or connectors in areas where the wiring is directly up against the bike's framework.
Last edited by NTXFJR on Mon Feb 20, 2017 2:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.
I would say recheck the horn wiring.... you had to make up a harness to cross over to the right side, yes? Worth rechecking. If you kept the OEM wiring and did not run ground to the horn mount (chassis), you should be OK. OEM wires pink and brown. New set to the right side should just have been an extension of those two.
Keep yer stick on the ice........... (Red Green)
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.
That's why you keep coming back?
