Suspension setup

[silverback]

What causes the bike to resist cornering? In the past few days its been requiring a lot of pressure on the inside bar to maintain the line.

Ride height (preload, front) is on 2 from full in

All others are 10 clicks from full in

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[ts3doug]

What pressure are you running in the front tire?

[silverback]

Haven't checked it today, but normally 40-42 psi. I guess I should check it.

[Name Etc.]

that was gonna be my suggestion.

[extrememarine]

+ 2 on the tire pressure, then tire wear after that. A worn or squared off front tire will present handling characteristics you describe. Has anything else been changed on the bike?

[Intech]

You are at 2 lines on the pre-load? That is on the stiffer side, but it is also relative to your fork oil too. Did you recently change it and install a different weight? The dampining setting on top I believe is 14 clicks full stroke. If you are 2 clicks from full in that will stiffen it up too. The dampening adjustment on the forks is 22 clicks full, so if you are 2 clicks from full in on that you have almost removed that damping. I would start by centering the dampening adjustments and work from there. Probably a good idea to check you steering head bearing play also.

[raYzerman]

Suspension settings are individual... somebody else`s aren`t necessarily going to work for you...... do you have the original forks springs and rear shock...... what do you weigh.....
It would not surprise me if you are 200 lbs. plus that you will have to dial in pretty much all of the preload to get proper sag measurements on the stock springs..........
damping is another story, as Intech says, start in the middle and make adjustments toward the tighter side, testing best done on a circuit that has as many variables as possible, i.e., smooth pavement, rough spots, curves, moguls..... repeat over the same circuit as you dial in changes..... then tweak once you are on longer trips to the twisties...
Rear shock... OEM is too limiting IMHO. Hard or soft, rebound damping only (has minor effect on compression as you adjust). I have seen recent postings about putting a `13 or `14A rear shock on..... stiffer rear spring and damping revisions to go with it, about $425. Aftermarket shocks are going to be double that.

[silverback]

They changed fork seals at the stealership before I bought it. Supposedly, their shop is fairly reputable.

The front tire is wearing the outside more than the center. I think its dual compound.

I set the pre load pretty high because I am still about 265…pretty heavy for the FJR. Is this too much? I will look into adjusting the damping ratios to mid range. I set them tight because of the mileage and the stock setup. Bad reasoning again?

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[Name Etc.]

They changed fork seals at the stealership before I bought it. Supposedly, their shop is fairly reputable.

The front tire is wearing the outside more than the center. I think its dual compound.

I set the pre load pretty high because I am still about 265…pretty heavy for the FJR. Is this too much? I will look into adjusting the damping ratios to mid range. I set them tight because of the mileage and the stock setup. Bad reasoning again?

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I think Intech thought you meant the Dampening was two clicks out. You were talking about the front Spring preload adjustment being two marks out of four... I think and the others twelve clicks right? my bad ten...

[silverback]

Yes two marks. Others are 10 clicks out


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[Intech]

Yes two marks. Others are 10 clicks out


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Ok then you are almost all the way out on the pre-load dampening and near mid-range on the rebound. It is also a good idea to verify your dampening clicks by turning them all the way in and then count how many clicks you get going all the way out. Then go back all the way in and count out to where you want to set it. I still recommend checking your steering head bearing. Also if your turn is is hard you may be too low in the rear. Can't remember how that is adjusted on the stock shock. I changed to a Penske and refuse to look back. As for your weight, it will have some effect on where you end up with settings, but mostly on the sag in the rear. The higher in the rear the quicker and easier the turn in. Opposite if you lower it.

[silverback]

Yes two marks. Others are 10 clicks out


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Ok then you are almost all the way out on the pre-load dampening and near mid-range on the rebound. It is also a good idea to verify your dampening clicks by turning them all the way in and then count how many clicks you get going all the way out. Then go back all the way in and count out to where you want to set it. I still recommend checking your steering head bearing. Also if your turn is is hard you may be too low in the rear. Can't remember how that is adjusted on the stock shock. I changed to a Penske and refuse to look back. As for your weight, it will have some effect on where you end up with settings, but mostly on the sag in the rear. The higher in the rear the quicker and easier the turn in. Opposite if you lower it.

No, almost all the way in. The front end is up, meaning that the preloaders are almost screwed all the way in. My reasoning was that if I left them out, my weight would cause the suspension to ride in the bottom end of its travel. Guessing that a 150 pound pilot is nominal, so I went on the higher side to balance it out trying to make the suspension travel in the middle.

Also, just tried to adjust the rear and found that there are no detents after about 3 clicks when turning "out". Meaning loosening a screw if you are laying on your back looking up at the shock. Turning it "in" there are about 10 clicks, and it feels pretty "crunchy" so I guess there is some internal damage. I set it to about mid range judging by the travel on the nut from full in to full out and the bike bounces like a North Omaha hoopty. I think the shock is gone. I will call the dealer that sold it to me and see how good their extended warranty is.

I took your advice and set the front end at mid dampening on both the top and bottom. I'll tweak it as time goes by to see what I can come up with.

I would like an upgrade, but right now, money is tight and suspension upgrades are not cheap...

[silverback]

Well, the extended warranty says Tue rear shock is a "wear item". No go. But the dealer offered half price parts and labor. So I asked if they would apply the half price of labor to the price of a used shock and they agreed. I am getting a used shock and will do the labor myself. Pretty decent of a dealership. Pretty decent indeed.

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[raYzerman]

I can bet you you want new fork springs more geared to your weight. Stock are 0.85 kg/mm, Gen II's are 1.0, I am using 1.0 @ 210lbs. Meanwhile, you want to crank the preload all the way in until no bars showing, although this is a compromise to compress a weak spring. Have someone help you measure sag someday.
My guess is you're going to set fork compression and damping in the 6-8 clicks out range, same on rear shock (set in the hard position for your weight). After a while, you'll think the rear shock is too harsh a ride, as it is undersprung for you, but try it....... so far we haven't spend any of your money yet you are going to see a handling improvement........

Edit - didn't see the last few posts while I was typing..... judging by your description, you've got the rear rebound so far out you haven't got much damping at all, therefore it may seem spongy.... however, if you sit on the bike and then stand up, does the bike jump right back up with no damping resistance? If so, shock pooched (is there evidence of leaking around the shaft?)...... also the rebound wheel on the bottom of the shock could be just corroded or gunked up so the detent balls are jamming causing limited adjustment.... a possiblity. Spray some penetrant and see if you can flush it out some, then turn the rebound right in then back out completely to see if you gained more clickys....

But, yep, you will have to spend some money to get you where you need to go. Aftermarket the best, compromise would be a '13 or '14A shock ($425) which has a heftier spring (976 lbs/in vs. 708 you have now). I personally in your case would go aftermarket.

[Intech]

I had to go look at my old shock. There is no height adjustment so if it is sagging then that will affect your turn in. Agree with Ray. Even if you just do it piece meal and upgrade the fork springs along with the rear shock it will be a dramatic difference. Sounds like there is not much sense in messing with the rear you have.

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[Chuck35]

If the front is to high (compared to the rear) The bike will want to wander to the outside of a turn.
When you get the rear shock adjusted to high (front to low) the bike gets unstable in a turn.

[OldButNotDead]

Setting up suspension by way of email is tough, and has already been stated very different between riders. I go 240lbs naked, so I'm almost your weight when riding. On my Gen II, I replaced the fork springs and shock springs with HyperPro springs which made significant improvements to handling. Went on to put AK20 fork cartridges and a Penske shock. Even better. I found that fiddling with the adjustments with stock forks and shock did not get me a whole lot of improvement. Better than set totally soft though. With stock components the thing that had the most impact on steering was tires. Some you would have to push them though the turn. Some would try to bring you back upright changing your line mid-corner. Some would dive right in and stay where you put them. IMO getting your suspension right is well worth the time and effort (also money).