Fork Seals

[usaffjr]

So my right fork is leaking fluid. Fairly significant amount judging by how quickly the fork tube was converted in gunk. My Google-foo has shown steps on how to tear down and rebuild the forks. I'm around 20k miles and don't think that's necessary. Stealership wants $400 to replace just the seals. Thoughts? Lessons learned? I'm willing to give this a go myself, but don't want to manufacture tools to make it happen.

- Eric

[HotRodZilla]

You should find a new dealer. I don't mess with my forks, but my last seal replacement with bushings and all was around $250 total.

Someone will be along to tell you how to DIYS, but I'm a chicken. No valves or forks for me.

[raYzerman]

Get a SealMate and clean the crud out between the seals and the fork tubes...... make one out of an old milk jug...... lots of peeps rave that it works, as crud in there is what causes the leaks. Chances are your seals are OK.

[usaffjr]

I've done that with my dirt bikes. My concern is I lost a lot of fluid. Or I think I did anyway. How can I tell?

- Eric

[silverback]

This is really easy. I have done it before. As long as you're not concerned with rebuilding the entire fork and such, my method is a 1.5 hour ordeal.
1. Remove the fork in question.
2. Remove the dust seal.
3. puncture the bad seal through the rigid metal part with a sharp object like an ice pick or a straight o-ring pick.
4. Drive an appropriately sized sheet metal screw into the puncture and pull on the screw.

The seal should come out. If not, puncture again about 90° away from the original. Some are stubborn.

A note here. You aren't using the screw to jack the seal out. You DON'T want to damage things under the seal. Just grip the seal enough to pull it. Usually it bends the seal enough the outside diameter collapses and it loses grip.

5. Drive the new seal in by conventional means.
6. Reinstall the fork and top off the fluid to spec.

No disassembling the fork, no worrying about the spring flying out or losing parts etc. Simple and straightforward. I have used this method on everything from FJR fork seals to crank seals on an XS11 to hydraulic seals on tractors. It works well.

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[usaffjr]

If the Seal Mate works, is there any way to top off the fluid? Seems like it would be difficult to know exactly how much to put in. I'd actually just do both sides and replace all fluid if I thought it were that easy... so what are the conventional means to drive it in? Pvc pipe?

- Eric

[silverback]

Conventional means...

Usually on a fully rubber encased seal, its a few taps around the periphery with a soft face hammer to drive it in evenly. IIRC the FJR seals are fully encased. If the outer ring is metallic, then a light coat of sealant, a plastic hammer and more tapping to start, some profanity, more cussing, start over, cuss, throw something, more sealant, more tapping, cussing, tapping, f@$k it use a bunch of sealant, beat the shit out of it, get another seal, start over, and finally it magically seats.

The problem with a piece of PVC is that if you don't get the end perfectly square, it can cock the seal sideways and cause more trouble than its worth. Especially if you're frustrated when you try it. If the pipe is small enough on the inside and large enough on the outside, and you can get someone to use a lathe to true the end, it would work well.

Maybe the answer is a piece of pipe that is a slip fit on the fork upper and a "reducer" type fitting that has the same outer diameter as the outside of the seal which could be glued to the end of the pipe?

I have lots of practice, and am VERY good at using the correct profanity, so they usually don't fight me too much just using a soft face hammer.

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[raYzerman]

You probably didn't lose much fluid, although it may seem that way visually.... the specified method to check level is to remove fork top cap and springs, check with fork collapsed.
I'd use Silverback's method for replacing the seal if the SealMate thing doesn't work, maybe add a little heat gun to the upper part of the lower fork housing. If you use 2" PVC, use the factory trimmed end against the seal, but it is a bit on the large side. Normally, I use an old seal to push on the new seal and take the brunt of the pounding, or if you have a spare seal washer (the big one that goes under the seal).......

[Bust]

You tools both forgot the thin circlip on top of the seal.. You will never get it out if you don't remove it.
I watched a guy fight with his for half an' hour ( he claimed he knew what he was doing) as soon as I looked at his fork leg I slapped him in the nutz and spent 20 minutes pushing the seal down so I could get to the clip.

Bent the hell outa the washer.
Oh and be slow when you collapse the tube to check oil level.. IIRC it is very close to overflowing.

[usaffjr]

All this madness is making me think I'll just get it done by someone. Taking a road trip in June (taking my bike to C Springs from Vegas so the movers don't touch it).

How many miles/years is the fork oil good for? It's an '06 with ~20k on the clock. If it's about time, I'll just have them drained and replace the seals...


- Eric

[Bust]

I'd say miles and age are enough to warrant a change.. It's really not that Hard a job Eric.
You should be able to do both forks w seals etc in 3 or 4 hours. There should be a link here on all the technicality's involed.

0Face started it w a week or so ago.

[Name Etc.]

You tools both forgot the thin circlip on top of the seal.. You will never get it out if you don't remove it.
I watched a guy fight with his for half an' hour ( he claimed he knew what he was doing) as soon as I looked at his fork leg I slapped him in the nutz and spent 20 minutes pushing the seal down so I could get to the clip.

Bent the hell outa the washer.
Oh and be slow when you collapse the tube to check oil level.. IIRC it is very close to overflowing.

That's what I was thinking! And the bent washer... Seen it.

[raYzerman]

BTW, are we talking Gen 1 or Gen II? Gen II has a middle bushing that can be tricky...... and needs a special tool to install.

[usaffjr]

Gen II...

- Eric

[Bust]

You think he'll need bushings at 20K Ray? I took it as he was just doing the seals..

[raYzerman]

It depends...... how much rough conditions have been encountered, etc., which nobody can really put a number on...... no real need to do it at 20k, but I would if I had 30+k....... if you take it to a shop, they'll recommend to do it all, but nothing says you have to and nothing wrong with just replacing the seals.... worst part of the job is getting the old one out. If you're anywhere mechanically inclined so you can change a front wheel, then taking the forks off ain't all that bad... half a day, it's done, including appropriate beer breaks and finding tools.

[wheatonFJR]

BTW, are we talking Gen 1 or Gen II? Gen II has a middle bushing that can be tricky...... and needs a special tool to install.

hmmmm...needs a special tool to install.

I think I know one or two of those guys.

[Bust]

Yeah Mark, there are a few "special tools" in attendance.

[FJRAL]

I have an '04ABS, at about 17k miles a few years back I was shocked to find my right fork was all wet. Got fork seals replaced along with an upgrade on the springs. Leaked again. Had moved to NC in the meantime. Found a respected "wrench" had it done again. Leaked again! Turned out the tube was defective! Small imperfections in the finish that wouldn't buff out, and they were also where the seal met the tube while it was parked. New tubes, no leaks in better than 10k miles. Every time I hear about seals leaking on a low mileage bike i think of this. FWIW

[wpbfjr]

Taking a road trip in June (taking my bike to C Springs from Vegas so the movers don't touch it).
- Eric

if your main goal is to ride it, then don't blame the movers and spend the $$$ to fix the seals.
if you'd like the experience of rebuilding your own seals, read on to how i x-oprted my fjr 900+ miles:

rode the fjr up into the truck, VERY helpful to have the front wheels of truck on incline.
used tie-downs to limit movement. fjr on side stand. placed shipping blankets over bike. packed soft items and boxes around bike. boxes, furniture, or bikes, don't want the shifting during travels, right?
upon arrival all good except i did not pay attention to the routing of one tie-down and that broke, but the secure packing of items around the fjr led to no movement/damage.
on arrival, spun bike around on center stand and rode off, remembering to place the trucks front wheels on an incline.

of course, i'm poor white trash and moved myself. you might be well educated with a real job and a company moving you... (i hope so)! lol...

dana