Pants is setting up his 2021 FJR and has Questions

[wheatonFJR]

My first tank full of fuel yielded 40 mpg. Given the conditions, I would have expected 43-45 mpg. Air filter and air box are clean. Neither front nor rear wheel drags.

Gonna burn a few more tanks and see what happens.

Ride more, stress less.....

Could be tightness of the new engine, could be that full oxygen and horsepower of sea level air. Could be you got a Kalifornicated model...or worse, the French detuned model.

But I'm guessing that all will average out towards the higher end after a while.

[bungie4]

Ordered the $28.00 Color-rite touch up pen to further hide some of the beauty marks.

Yeah - you read that right. TWENTY-EIGHT FREAKING DOLLARS.... for touch up paint.

(sigh)

This inflation shit is not for the faint at heart....

Line's rav popped a fuse. $15 for a 5 pack of assorted short insert fuses.

Also, inflation only has affect when you spend your money.

[Bounce]

The FJR's mpg is highly influenced by the right wrist (as is tire life).

[D-Eagle]

Also, inflation only has affect when you spend your money.

Holy crap I love that quote.

[wheatonFJR]

Also, inflation only has affect when you spend your money.

Holy crap I love that quote.

The quote sounds good and rings true...but in actuality, you only FEEL inflation when you spend your money. Inflation is affecting your property and assets just like a wild boar that is constantly destroying your crops when you are away, and now that you are looking to harvest those crops...you FEEL the effects of the destruction. The destruction was happening the whole time without you feeling it...but the bite is ever so real.

[bungie4]

That's because it is spent money.

Fawk your feelings. You've just converted it into something tangible. The fault is you have an expectation of it to hold or increase in value. Silly boy. Had you saved that dollar and not done something stupid like invested it, you would still have that dollar.

[wheatonFJR]

That's because it is spent money.

Fawk your feelings. You've just converted it into something tangible. The fault is you have an expectation of it to hold or increase in value. Silly boy. Had you saved that dollar and not done something stupid like invested it, you would still have that dollar.

Um, no. And no this isn't a feelings contest but a real loss.

In the meantime, PPants is feeling the hurt cuz he's buying shit.

[Hppants]

Second tank of fuel made 46.25 mpg.

Guess that concern is over.

Time to apply some right wrist.

[Hppants]

Received the T-Rex Frame Sliders. Instructions say "manufacturer's torque spec overrides T-Rex instructions" - I understand that.

1. Instructions say that the frame bolt gets torqued to 40 Ft Pds.
2. My (2014-2015) S/M says those bolts are 35 Ft. Pds.

Can anyone please check me on this to confirm that for the 2021 - the torque is the same (35)?

Thanks.

[FJRoss]

Received the T-Rex Frame Sliders. Instructions say "manufacturer's torque spec overrides T-Rex instructions" - I understand that.

1. Instructions say that the frame bolt gets torqued to 40 Ft Pds.
2. My (2014-2015) S/M says those bolts are 35 Ft. Pds.

Can anyone please check me on this to confirm that for the 2021 - the torque is the same (35)?

Thanks.

I wouldn't sweat a 15% difference in torque. Wrench calibration, presence (or absence) of oil/corrosion/thread locker and even temperature will have a greater affect. Never hurts to have it as close as possible but I would probably go lower rather than higher if there is any question and possibly add a dab of blue Loctite (which effectively lubricates threads when not cured).
(Although for stainless bolts into aluminum, a dab of anti-seize might be more appropriate.)
Do instructions say to use either?

[Hppants]

Received the T-Rex Frame Sliders. Instructions say "manufacturer's torque spec overrides T-Rex instructions" - I understand that.

1. Instructions say that the frame bolt gets torqued to 40 Ft Pds.
2. My (2014-2015) S/M says those bolts are 35 Ft. Pds.

Can anyone please check me on this to confirm that for the 2021 - the torque is the same (35)?

Thanks.

I wouldn't sweat a 15% difference in torque. Wrench calibration, presence (or absence) of oil/corrosion/thread locker and even temperature will have a greater affect. Never hurts to have it as close as possible but I would probably go lower rather than higher if there is any question and possibly add a dab of blue Loctite (which effectively lubricates threads when not cured).
(Although for stainless bolts into aluminum, a dab of anti-seize might be more appropriate.)
Do instructions say to use either?

Instructions call for medium Lock-tite, which I used and went with 35 ft pounds (OEM spec). I reversed my torque wrench, and set it to 25 ft. pounds. Then I increased by 2 ft pds until the wrench broke the bolt. 36 ft pds and it broke. Ironically, no lock-tite on the OEM bolt.

Movin on....

[raYzerman]

Once you loctite it, it's a lubricated thread technically, so should drop the torque 30%. 35 is high for a bolt that size anyway. We are talking the rear frame bolt, yes? OEM torque is 32 ft. lbs.....

I also hope you used anti-seize in the front engine mount bolts and reduced the torque there also.... we don't want those bolts corroding in those locations.

[Hppants]

Once you loctite it, it's a lubricated thread technically, so should drop the torque 30%. 35 is high for a bolt that size anyway. We are talking the rear frame bolt, yes? OEM torque is 32 ft. lbs.....

I also hope you used anti-seize in the front engine mount bolts and reduced the torque there also.... we don't want those bolts corroding in those locations.

it's the front bolts - I installed the "pucks" only - not the cages. The OEM bolts had no lock-tite in them or anti-sieze on them. The OEM spec on those is 35 ft.pds. That's what I torqued them to (with Lock-tite). So.... they might be a smidge over-torque'd. I didn't use anti-seize. I do understand it's di-similar metals. On the last FJR, they never got removed in 91K miles. Fingers crossed.

[raYzerman]

They are a fine thread bolt (12 x 1.25), easy to strip if threads compromised by aluminum corrosion...... I have seen several in various states. Everybody should anti-seize and torque to 25. I personally would avoid loctite on those ones. I cringe when I see white stuff on the threads or worse, slivers of thread coming with the bolt as you remove it. FYI, never remove these bolts with an electric or air impact gun, speed is your enemy here. Any time we need to remove these bolts at tech days, they always get a coat of anti-seize before going back in.

[Hppants]

Well shit - I certainly can't argue with success. I'll pull 'em back out and use anti sieze. Thanks Ray.

[bigjohnsd]

Well shit - I certainly can't argue with success. I'll pull 'em back out and use anti sieze. Thanks Ray.

Isn't there a specific Engine Mount Bolt tightening sequence in the FSM to preclude vibration?

[raYzerman]

Yes, but it only really applies when you are installing an engine. However, in general left side bolts are hard contact, whereas the rights have sleeves with pinch bolts.... to be adjusted to the actual width of the frame. Once done the first time, really shouldn't have to do it again.

Some have claimed some success loosening them, retightening lefts then rights. Ha ha, there's 4 you can't get to unless the side plastics are off and the throttle bodies are removed......

Some have had success loosening the mufflers at both the front and back, let the pipe seek it's own neutral position... tighten the rears first, then the clamps at the headers.....

My proposed cure for vibes is do a valve check and re-shim everything to be at nominal or above and being anal about getting them uniform across the board. TB sync afterwards of course.