Trailering the FJR

[Hppants]

Thanks to everyone for the replies. I got a good picture now.

I ordered 4 rachet straps. I have 5 now, but need 4 of them to strap down the DR650, which is also coming along for the ride.

The kit I ordered comes with the "soft loops". I'll run those around the lower triple clamp, and then rachet down from there to a couple of eye bolts I will install on the wooden floor boards. Strap down the back similarly (likely from the rear peg sets.

Here's the thing - I don't feel like paying $200 plus for a front wheel chock. Couldn't I just screw down a couple of 2x4s to the trailer to hold the front wheel from turning? Then get some help racheting down the front while I hold the bike straight? Has anybody ever done that, and if so, what did it look like? i.e - One 2x4 laid flat down to straddle both sides of the tire? Something more elaborate? What am I missing on that?

I'm experienced with towing. The trailer is going to be looked over extensively next week. Not to worry there.

Also - my self imposed speed limit for the trip is now 60 mph. It's a 5 x 10 trailer. No point in getting into a hurry.

[Festus]

Here's the thing - I don't feel like paying $200 plus for a front wheel chock. Couldn't I just screw down a couple of 2x4s to the trailer to hold the front wheel from turning? Then get some help racheting down the front while I hold the bike straight? Has anybody ever done that, and if so, what did it look like? i.e - One 2x4 laid flat down to straddle both sides of the tire? Something more elaborate? What am I missing on that?

You don't need a wheel chock. It's just nice if you have a good one because you pull the tire into it and it flips closed and holds it tight, meaning you need less to hold it down since the front is locked in.

If you don't have one, it's all good. Just strap it as you mentioned, ride on.

[Hppants]

Here's the thing - I don't feel like paying $200 plus for a front wheel chock. Couldn't I just screw down a couple of 2x4s to the trailer to hold the front wheel from turning? Then get some help racheting down the front while I hold the bike straight? Has anybody ever done that, and if so, what did it look like? i.e - One 2x4 laid flat down to straddle both sides of the tire? Something more elaborate? What am I missing on that?

You don't need a wheel chock. It's just nice if you have a good one because you pull the tire into it and it flips closed and holds it tight, meaning you need less to hold it down since the front is locked in.

If you don't have one, it's all good. Just strap it as you mentioned, ride on.

Just so I'm clear - you'd agree that if I screwed down a couple of 2 x 4 boards that would snuggly straddle my front wheel, that should do it? I mean - I get that the chock serves 2 purposes. The first is to keep the front wheel from turning, thusly loosening the front straps and bad things happen. The second is to hold the bike upright while you strap the front down - no? For that, I'll just ask my neighbor to tighten the straps while hold the bike straight.

Have I got that right?

[gixxerjasen]

With the Condor chock you almost don't need tie downs. That'd be stupid of course but it holds the bike that well. It's really a nice bit of kit. There's also the Pit Bull trailer restraint which does the same thing, but better, but pricier. A lot of it comes down to how often you'll be using it. Nice thing with the condor is you can use it in your garage, just ride into the thing and then step off and go inside. I've wanted one for a while now.

You'll be fine with the 2x4's though, but they also provide another benefit that comes with a chock. Should your trailer ride in the rain, depending on the surface of your trailer and the bumpiness of the road, there's the possibility of the tires slipping to the side and the bike falling down. It's unlikely but I've heard of it happening. A rail or in your case, 2x4's will eliminate that possibility.

[Festus]

You don't need the 2 x 4's, but if you want to put them there, it wouldn't hurt anything. You could also make a triangle from the 2 x 4's and put one on each side, screwed to the deck, and then you'd capture the tire at the front and the bottom, which is more like what the chock is doing anyway.

[DesignFlaw06]

Thanks to everyone for the replies. I got a good picture now.

I ordered 4 rachet straps. I have 5 now, but need 4 of them to strap down the DR650, which is also coming along for the ride.

The kit I ordered comes with the "soft loops". I'll run those around the lower triple clamp, and then rachet down from there to a couple of eye bolts I will install on the wooden floor boards. Strap down the back similarly (likely from the rear peg sets.

Here's the thing - I don't feel like paying $200 plus for a front wheel chock. Couldn't I just screw down a couple of 2x4s to the trailer to hold the front wheel from turning? Then get some help racheting down the front while I hold the bike straight? Has anybody ever done that, and if so, what did it look like? i.e - One 2x4 laid flat down to straddle both sides of the tire? Something more elaborate? What am I missing on that?

I'm experienced with towing. The trailer is going to be looked over extensively next week. Not to worry there.

Also - my self imposed speed limit for the trip is now 60 mph. It's a 5 x 10 trailer. No point in getting into a hurry.

The straps on the lower triple clamp will keep the front wheel from turning. You just need something for the wheel to but up against. I used a 2x4 (4 inch side upright) for most of the trailering until I upgraded to the Condor. The Condor is nice because you can get off the bike when it's locked in and do your straps. You can do it with the 2x4 and by yourself, but it is easier if someone else helps you.

Go through the trailer with the eye bolts with a washer and lock nut underneath. Screws will pull out and soon. Personally, I wouldn't use the "soft loops" as it adds another point of failure. Go up and around the lower triple clamp and have both hooks on the eye bolt. It is very easy to bend the rear pegs if you strap from there. That's why I went to the rear tire.

Also make sure the slack of the strap is tied up and can't flap in the breeze. It will beat the hell out of your paint if it is flapping in the breeze. It is also capable of flapping in between the floorboards of the trailer, getting caught up in the axle, and yanking the bike down.

Do a shakedown run for a few miles and check your straps. And then check your straps at every stop.

[Hppants]

5 x 10 seems a bit narrow. Not sure if I can get two bikes in there. Failing that, 2 options:

1. Perhaps stagger the bikes? Put the FJR in the front as far to one side as possible. Then put the DR behind it on the opposite side? Not sure that will work.

2. Put the DR in the back of the truck, and the FJR in the trailer. If I do that, I would need to place the DR diagonally in order to close the tailgate. Never did that before.

[dcarver]

All this for an up and coming trailer queen. Sigh.

[N4HHE]

Yamaha stopped using the Canyon Dancer on the FJR Demo bikes many years ago due to problems. Not sure what problems. They strapped down to the lower triple clamp. One or two rear straps just for stability.

You can use 4-for-$10 Harbor Freight ties if you use the lower bridge.

[Hppants]

All this for an up and coming trailer queen. Sigh.

Hardly.

I can do a lot of things, but I can’t drive a pickup truck and 2 motorcycles at the same time….

[danh600]

5 x 10 seems a bit narrow. Not sure if I can get two bikes in there. Failing that, 2 options:

1. Perhaps stagger the bikes? Put the FJR in the front as far to one side as possible. Then put the DR behind it on the opposite side? Not sure that will work.

2. Put the DR in the back of the truck, and the FJR in the trailer. If I do that, I would need to place the DR diagonally in order to close the tailgate. Never did that before.

We have four bikes. I staggered the wheel chocks. Good thing, most of the handle bars do not play nice together. That is with a 7' wide trailer. So that helps a lot.

[raYzerman]

Harbor Freight wheel chocks are cheap enough, not Condor quality, but they work.. and yes, stagger them. a 5' wide trailer is a little snug for two bikes but it can be done with one being a DS. Saddlebags off the FJR of course.

[Cav47]

I have put the FJR in the back of 2 different trucks plenty. Never on a trailer, so don't call it a trailer queen!

I used a Canyon Dancer with Zero problems. Haters gonna hate

I tied off the Givi Rack in the back. Attached at a high point to keep it steady

I tied off the rear foot pegs. Regular ratchet strap cut down.

I put a tie strap through the front tire to keep the wheel snug to the back of the cab and not twist.

7 total straps was prob overkill, but it was an issue.

I just did a facebook marketplace search for Lafayette. There is multiple wheel chocks there for less than 50 bucks that look decent for your application. Breaux Bridge, Youngsville, New Iberia has 3 of them for 40 bucks.


The only time I had a concern is when the front tire started to twist a little coming home from SDakota. The lifting of the road on some dips would cause a little negative weight issue. That only happened in the Tacoma because the bed liner did not have any grooves for the tire to fit in. The Ridgeline did and front tire twisting was not a problem. Across the plains at 90mph and that was the only time. I have since fixed that by putting a simple wheel chock from the Harbor Freight lift table on a piece of lumber that is cut to fit between the bed.


You will be able to alleviate that by attaching the 2x4. I always let the bike ride on the suspension.

If you are keeping the speed under 60, you are totally gonna be fine.

Trailer more, worry less.

[DesignFlaw06]

5 x 10 seems a bit narrow. Not sure if I can get two bikes in there. Failing that, 2 options:

1. Perhaps stagger the bikes? Put the FJR in the front as far to one side as possible. Then put the DR behind it on the opposite side? Not sure that will work.

2. Put the DR in the back of the truck, and the FJR in the trailer. If I do that, I would need to place the DR diagonally in order to close the tailgate. Never did that before.

The FJR is going to take up most of that trailer. Side cases might have to ride in the truck if you choose to fit both bikes in. One option we've done in the past is backing one bike in. Even so, 5ft is pretty narrow so I doubt that'll happen.

The DRZ should be way easier to tie down than the FJR. I've put the Nighthawk in the back of the truck with the tailgate. It's snug, but it fit and I can't imagine the DRZ is any bigger than that. The truck should have tie down points you can latch on to. The goal isn't to "strap it down". The goal is to prevent it from tipping over. Should be manageable in the truck. The hardest part will be getting in/out of there.

[gixxerjasen]

Also don't forget to think outside the box and put the bike in the bed diagonally so you can close the tailgate if that makes things easier.

Wait, that's thinking INSIDE the box. Whatever.

[raYzerman]

Depending on the trailer, might not be able to leave the tailgate down..... can you say 6x10 trailer?

[N4HHE]

Pic I could not post the other day. Two FJRs on one Kendon Dual Standup Trailer:

[Hppants]

that is one fine trailer. That is NOT what I'm working with, unfortunately.

[bigjohnsd]

Pix once you are loaded or it never happened.
When it comes to tie-downs - Moah is betta!
2x4's = good
Canyon Dancer for stability only, use the lower triple clamp, use the soft ties, watch the angle to avoid having the straps touch the plastic - you've got flexibility when/where you position your eye-bolts. Use 3/8" eye bolts thru bolted.

[extrememarine]

I have a 6'x8' trailer from Tractor Supply - "Carry All" brand I think. I removed the flip of expanded steel ramp (acts like sail) and use a tri-fold ramp (this one from HF)to load the FJR, and a 2x6 with ramp end attachment to load the DRZ. I have removal Pingle wheel chocks (like this); easy to install to configure trailer for single motorcycle (center) or 2 bike (side by side). 6' wide trailer accommodates FJR and DRZ well - load FJR first, then DR.

Both of the trailers I've owned were 6' wide; with a single bike, it provides a wide base (versus the 5' wide trailers) that is very stable, even in twisty roads being dragged by a GTI...

I use soft tie loops around the lower triple clamps of both bikes to anchor points in the trailer (I did drill holes in the rail uprights for the strap hooks). I use a canyon dancer off the handlebars solely as a backup in case the primary strap breaks on the FJR (never used secondary straps on DRZ). Rear straps go off the frame around rider pegs.

I'm sure that someone will point out all the things wrong with this set up. That said, I have never had a bike damaged during transport, never had one fall over on or in the trailer, and never had one damaged during the loading /unloading process.