Pants is setting up his 2021 FJR and has Questions

[Hppants]

I'm starting this thread to get assistance on my 2021 FJR.

1. I need to purchase 90 Degree valve stems. It's is my understanding that what I need is for a 11.3 mm hole in the rim. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Alumi ... 152&sr=8-1

What do you have?

2. I need to get some 1" bar risers. I don't want the helibridge. Just some simple 1" risers. Again, I've found several brands out there, but when you dig a bit deeper, many are not well reviewed. Specifically, on some of them, the bolts that come with them are low grade. I've even read horror stories of the bolts stripping in the triple clamp. What do you have?

3. My bike didn't come with an owner's manual. By any chance does anyone have a manual they would be willing to part with? Specifically, I'm having trouble figuring out how to use the menu for the electronic suspension. I need a tutorial for that.

4. Can anyone confirm that the procedure to cycle the ABS pump for this bike (2021) is the SAME as the one for the '14 model? Use the same jumper?

5. I need to find a trigger source (ignition hot) for my fuze block relay. I cannot see the blue/wht stripe wire that was used for the license plate light on my '14 - I don't see that wire on the 2021. What do you use?

6. I'm considering getting the T-Rex crash cages:

https://www.t-rex-racing.com/2013-2022- ... 13egb5.htm

Do these interfere with access to the oil filter?

It would appear that T-Rex is out of stock on the frame sliders.

That's all for now - rest assured there will be more. Thanks in advance.

[Spininprop]

#1 - no help but interested in this one too... had them installed (got them during new tires install, can't remember sizing) on my 16 which went bye bye when I traded. So much easier.

#3 - probably better to have the manual for direct reference, but try YouTube?

#4 - no help but I hope so, I made up a jumper with the appropriate connector, makes it easy.

#5 - same blue/wht wire on my 22 as my 16, would assume same as 21. Bundle of wire heading to rear of bike, under left side of rear seat. Wires are held in place by a hold down. I used a wiretap (i think it was for 18 to 22 awg wire) for my Fuzeblock trigger. Filled with dielectric and taped over.

[FJRoss]

Owner's manual downloadable from Yamaha as pdf.
https://library.ymcapps.net/library/om/ ... &langId=02
My valve stems look like those (except silver). Don't know if they are a "brand name" or knockoff
I think the Gen III+ may not be identical but I have used Genmar risers on my Gen II without any issues for 13 years.

[rbentnail]

1. I use Hawks Head brand t-stems with TPMS. Before that I got metal 83 deg stems from https://www.kurveygirl.com/collections/valve-stems only b/c for the brand they have they also have replacement seals. I never needed one, but they have them.

2. I used Genmar 1" risers on my '07 for years.

3. Free downloadable owners manuals in pdf from Yamaha -> https://library.ymcapps.net/library/om/ ... &langId=02. I put it on my phone, tablet and laptop for ease of access. Check ebay for paper ones.

[raYzerman]

1. Those will work, or T-stems if you're going to use TPMS someday.
2. Not up on what's out there for riser blocks these days.... crapshoot on the hardware. Only two of the bolts (6mm hex recess) are threaded into the triple clamp. Not sure why any standard ones would strip unless overtorqued or otherwise abused or crossthreaded.... or seized in there if stainless due to bi-metal corrosion (use anti-seize and reduce torque 30%).
3. Free download as Ross and Russ say.....
4. Yes, same jumper and procedure for all Gens.
5. Under left side panel, behind airbox, 6-way connector (only 5 used) contains wires for tail, brake, signals and black ground..... tail light wire is blue (on all Gens). Beside it, either a two-way or two bullet connectors for the licence plate lamp, power is blue in and blue/red out to rear. If you're having trouble finding it, under rear seat, follow rear lighting harness along left side frame until you find the connectors under the left side panel. Use either tail light or licence light wire as trigger wire for your fuse panel.

I am quoting 2016 A/ES service manual, should be same to current. Note, they mislabelled the wiring diagrams. A is actually ES and vice versa.

[extrememarine]

#4 - on closed course, accelerate to 60mph (gear of choice). squeeze front brake lever until it touches the grip. Hold it there until the bike stops. repeat as desired.

[FJRoss]

#4 - on closed course, accelerate to 60mph (gear of choice). squeeze front brake lever until it touches the grip. Hold it there until the bike stops. repeat as desired.

Going to do the rear brake too?

[extrememarine]

Same procedure, exchanging "front brake lever" with "rear brake pedal"...

#4 - on closed course, accelerate to 60mph (gear of choice). squeeze front brake lever until it touches the grip. Hold it there until the bike stops. repeat as desired.

Going to do the rear brake too?

[FJRoss]

Same procedure, exchanging "front brake lever" with "rear brake pedal"...

#4 - on closed course, accelerate to 60mph (gear of choice). squeeze front brake lever until it touches the grip. Hold it there until the bike stops. repeat as desired.

Going to do the rear brake too?

I used the jumper method for the first time last year after 13 years of FJR ownership. Meh - grab brake lever or stomp on pedal is more fun. Advance knowledge that ABS is functional is a help.

[gixxerjasen]

T stems and TPMS. You should just do this now. I got my t-stems from Wingstuff. Pricey but quality. Yes, IIRC, that price is PER stem.

[N4HHE]

There seems to be one chinese manufacturer of this exact shape but have been many vendors on Amazon. These are what I have been buying and installing in mine and friends. With 7 years of experience have learned they need to be tightened every 5. But under $8 for a pair Amazon Prime, hard to beat:
https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Motorcycle ... 08W56GBQ2/

Believe the above are the same as these, have purchased both. $8 each from NoMar, plus shipping: https://www.nomartirechanger.com/vs-90-black-10mm.html

The hole in the rim is 11.3 mm but the valve is sometimes called 10 mm because that is the diameter of the valve inside the gasket.

[bill lumberg]

T-Rex cages don’t interfere with anything.

I’d never use a 90 degree stem unless they stopped making t valves. Wingstuff and Fobo sell them.

I don’t remember for sure, but I believe I’ve used the same (rayzwrman) abs lead/switch on all three of my FJR’s. If yours doesn’t work you’re welcome to use mine.

I’ve got a BlueDriver code reader/diagnostic tool and lead if you ever need it.

If i can’t find the manual from my 2018, I’ll send you the one from my 2022. I’ve also got an fsm if you need excerpts.

[bungie4]

#4 - on closed course, accelerate to 60mph (gear of choice). squeeze front brake lever until it touches the grip. Hold it there until the bike stops. repeat as desired.

This is Lee Parks level 2 panic breaking. Except it's about 25mph.

[extrememarine]

#4 - on closed course, accelerate to 60mph (gear of choice). squeeze front brake lever until it touches the grip. Hold it there until the bike stops. repeat as desired.

This is Lee Parks level 2 panic breaking. Except it's about 25mph.

Exactly. We worked our way from 20mph in 10mph increments at the Kieth Code class.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

[Hppants]

Thank you one and all for your help.

90 degree valve stems ordered - done

Fontanaman has made me an offer I can't refuse on his 1" bar risers (apparently no longer using) - done

Owner's manaul downloaded - still want a paper copy, much appreciated Lumberg if you can part with one of yours.

During my test ride with the dealer, I grabbed a hand full (and stomped a foot full) of brake, and felt the ABS working. Be that as it may, I'd still like to perform the cycling procedure. I can't find the link (with pictures) that shows which wires to jump at the connector, and the process. Can someone please point me to that?


I pulled the left side cover off and found what I believe is the correct connector for the rear lighting. In the following picture, is the baby blue wire the license plate light?



Tracing that wiring to the back, I also find this connector.



Here is a picture from my 2014.



Look at the bottom of the picture where I found a "bullet connector" on the blue wire and was able to wire in the trigger wire (yellow) without tapping or cutting the OEM wire. I don't see that bullet connector on my 2021.

Before I go tapping or cutting - any comments? Because of the electronic suspension ECU, I've got to make a decision re: Fuze block. If I put it where it was on the '14, I guess I can just velcro it to the top of the E/S ECU - use the strap to hold it down also. OR - maybe screw it down at the back where that "connector" is on the second picture above. Thoughts?

NEW ISSUE NEW ISSUE NEW ISSUE

Apparently, the P/O decided to omit the grommets underneath the seat bracket.



Here is the parts breakdown in question for reference, grommets in question are #24 (left side of picture near my finger) and #25 (right side):

https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/ya ... cb348/seat

I think I only need ONE EACH of the #24 and 25 grommets. The seat bracket has two pairs of "nipples" that are inserted intot he grommets. When the bracket is moved high to low, the second set of nipples grabs the SAME grommets. Can anyone please look under their seat and confirm this so I can order the right amount of parts?

Thank you again.

[Intech]

I use the glove box solenoid power for my switched source.

[bigjohnsd]

Best "Power Tap" solution I have found is the Posi Tap -





https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-POSI-TAP ... 9977&psc=1

I've got a bunch, I'll be happy to mail you a couple. Let me know today.

[raYzerman]

Connector looks right, yellow = brake, brown and green are signals... on yours, rear connector may be where they took blue and black (ground) to a junction for the licence plate wires........
I usually use a Positap for this like bigjohn says....
Alternate trigger, fuse tap to the Hazard fuse (should be standalone outside of one of the fuse boxes).... comes on with ignition. Only need a 5 amp fuse max...... but that's way up front.

Some put fuseblocks right back in the tail, another option. Think of what you'd have to do to swap a fuse on the road.... leave enough wire and use velcro or duo-loc.

[Festus]

If you are open to ideas, you should check out what Roadrunner does with the fuze blocks (not the brand name one). Locates it, as Ray mentions, in the tail of the bike. It's brilliant.

[Hppants]

Yeah - I think I'm going to re-locate the fuze block in the tail. Means I have to reconstruct the harness to the battery, to the aux lights, etc. No big deal. I'd rather have the block screwed down than "velcro'd" where it can wiggle around. Thanks.

John - I can get a posi-tap local. I've seen them here. Since I must tap a wire, that's what I'll use. Thanks.