What did you do to your FJR today?

[wheatonFJR]

Awesome!

[escapefjrtist]

Speaking of Penske, mine came with a card listing recommended starting clicker settings. Have lost that card and don't think I've been any good at finding optimal. Guessing the nominal settings are nearly the same for all. Suggestions?

I've found the 8900 manual and motorcycle tuning guide available from Penske to be extremely helpful explaining shock set-up and adjustments.

https://www.penskeshocks.com/resources/ ... ?hsLang=en

~G

[gixxerjasen]

Checked tire pressures and it's still holding air, albeit just a little lower. It's 55F outside so I topped off the rear tire and headed out with a set of plugs and pump just in case they dyna plugs came out. Got it up to speed getting out of our town and to the next town over. Pulled over and tire pressures are good and the plug looks good. Then I ran the rest of my hour long loop and stopped for gas. According to my fuel log, it looks like my last fuel up was returning home from California in September. Sigh, such is how it goes with several bikes to choose from and crappy weather all the time. Had to ride carefully as there's still sand all over the roads and especially the bridges from our ice storm last week, but it was a good ride in decent weather. Won't be long and I'll be wishing for 55F temps.

[BkerChuck]

Speaking of Penske, mine came with a card listing recommended starting clicker settings. Have lost that card and don't think I've been any good at finding optimal. Guessing the nominal settings are nearly the same for all. Suggestions?

Wanted to service the relay arm at the same time hence the centerstand removal.

[BkerChuck]

Speaking of Penske, mine came with a card listing recommended starting clicker settings. Have lost that card and don't think I've been any good at finding optimal. Guessing the nominal settings are nearly the same for all. Suggestions?

I've found the 8900 manual and motorcycle tuning guide available from Penske to be extremely helpful explaining shock set-up and adjustments.

https://www.penskeshocks.com/resources/ ... ?hsLang=en

~G

Manual was in the box with the shock when received form eBay seller along with the little card mentioned listing it's set up from when it was built.

[Road Runner]

I flushed the clutch fluid on my AE yesterday. It was easy using the computer to actuate the clutch.
Make sure bike is in gear.
key on, squeeze brake then let go. You can hear the clutch actuator push.
open then close bleeder.
key off, wait 5-10 seconds. You can hear the clutch actuator release.
repeat as needed

Next on my list is the relay arm bearings, and Ohlins.

[tominca]

My Penske shock was the most transformational change I ever made to the bike. It's been rebuilt once since original install. Like N4HHE I did not have to remove the centerstand and removed the OEM hard/soft switch. One caution, the Penske clevis that attaches to the relay arm has sometimes fractured when the bolts are too tight and compress the clevis. Somewhere is a thread on this. Penske was supposed to engineer and provide a replacement for this defect, but AFAIK never delivered.

[tominca]

Do a search using the terms "Penske settings site:FJRforum.com" for more information on settings. Here is the thread on the broken clevis: https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/broken ... is.170186/

[N4HHE]

Do a search using the terms "Penske settings site:FJRforum.com" for more information on settings. Here is the thread on the broken clevis: https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/broken ... is.170186/

I remember knowing that was an issue and studying my Penske upon installation to see if there might be a problem. Don't remember the specifics but do remember deciding it would be OK. Mine came with a new bolt that would not work with the OE shock and OE bolt would not work with the Penske shock. So perhaps the design changed?

[tominca]

This is a topic lost in time, and it would be great to start a new thread here and get some images of the shoulder bolts to see if a change has happened. As I recall we only needed a couple millimeters wider washer to make this go away, and FredW was on top of a DIY modification that solved the problem in that thread I linked.

[fontanaman]

We've all noticed how nice freshly mounted new tires feel and my tires are at 5k now so about halfway done. This shock has the bike feeling like I put new tires on. There are a few roads near me that while not Tail of the Dragon caliber are still fun to ride and it's really easy to push the speed limits on them. Glance at the speedo reveals I'm not pushing them I'm suddenly beating them into submission! Bike is holding its line far better and more confidence inspiring than the stock shock ever felt.

Great description of what high quality after market suspension will do. Set sag to about 1/3 of shock travel then ride it to find the ideal damping settings.

Congratulations.

[BkerChuck]

Do a search using the terms "Penske settings site:FJRforum.com" for more information on settings. Here is the thread on the broken clevis: https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/broken ... is.170186/

I remember knowing that was an issue and studying my Penske upon installation to see if there might be a problem. Don't remember the specifics but do remember deciding it would be OK. Mine came with a new bolt that would not work with the OE shock and OE bolt would not work with the Penske shock. So perhaps the design changed?

Penske is now replacing the bottom clevis on all FJR shocks sent in for rebuild with the bottom clevis and hardware for an R6. This is being done a a warranty and free of charge. They're not even concerned if the shock was bought used. My apologies for not mentioning this sooner, like the first post about the shock! They did return the old clevis and hardware so they don't end up with a pile of questionable parts lying around where a mistake could be made. Both holes in the clevis are now the same size as the large diameter on one side of the OE FJR clevis and the bolt shoulder is full length. Pretty stout piece.

[tominca]

Thanks. I'll get in touch and get one coming my way.

[Blueridgerider]

Speaking of Penske, mine came with a card listing recommended starting clicker settings. Have lost that card and don't think I've been any good at finding optimal. Guessing the nominal settings are nearly the same for all. Suggestions?

These are the settings that Traxxion used for my Penske recently. I hope this will possibly help you out.

[Blueridgerider]

I might be the first on the block to put on a new pair of Michelin Road 6 GT's and am excited to see how they do. They say they get 10% better wear than the 5's and better grip as well. Speaking of Traxxion, I hope that the upgrade improves tire life. I only got about 7K out of my Road 5's. Great tires but I burn them up quick. I also replaced my rear brake pads (easy) and removed the front to inspect them. Most still had a pretty good amount left on them, 2 of the 4 on each side were great and 2 were worn more but still ok.

I guess to replace the front pads you have to also change the fluid as the new ones would not fit over the rotors and the caliper piston? On my Wing I could push the pistons in to make room for the pads. Seems a bit more difficult on the FJR. Any feedback here would be appreciated as it won't be too long before I put the new shoes in.

[Red]

I guess to replace the front pads you have to also change the fluid as the new ones would not fit over the rotors and the caliper piston? On my Wing I could push the pistons in to make room for the pads. Seems a bit more difficult on the FJR. Any feedback here would be appreciated as it won't be too long before I put the new shoes in.

Blueridgerider,

You may need to attach the fluid catch hose to the bleeder screw, and loosen the bleeder screw enough to allow fluid to leave the bleeder as you press the caliper pistons back inward, enough for the new pads to fit. I would pack toilet tissue tightly around the bleeder screw to catch any unwanted fluid leaks, and change it often until the caliper pistons are retracted and the bleeder screw is tight again. If the brake fluid comes out clean and fresh, you should not need to bleed the brakes, but do check the reservoir level frequently as you are pumping up the brake system with the brake lever. HTH.

[gixxerjasen]

Do the pistons go back in flush? If not, you might have an issue and need to rebuild them by pulling them apart and replacing the seals. PIA, but hey, at least you aren't doing it the night before a 5000 mile trip, right?

Try what red said, but also look at the pistons and make sure they aren't sticking.

[raYzerman]

I remember all that Penske discussion and they had fixed it...... should send you a new clevis......

You do the opposite when replacing pads... push the pistons out while the old pads are still in there (off the disks), and expose pistons for cleaning (toothbrush and brake fluid, alcohol rinse)... THEN push the pistons back in. Don't push in dirty pistons.

[tominca]

Sure nuf:

Hello Tom,

Yes, we do have an upgrade for the FJR clevis. We use our R6 clevis and supply a Yamaha bolt, washer, and nut from the R6. This way the clevis get tightened on both sides and not just one. You would use the OEM sleeve from the FJR. We will get one out to you.

Thank you,

Eric Trinkley - Motorcycle Market Manager

150 Franklin St - Reading,PA - 19602
ph.610-375-6180 - et@penskeshocks.com

[gixxerjasen]

I remember all that Penske discussion and they had fixed it...... should send you a new clevis......

You do the opposite when replacing pads... push the pistons out while the old pads are still in there (off the disks), and expose pistons for cleaning (toothbrush and brake fluid, alcohol rinse)... THEN push the pistons back in. Don't push in dirty pistons.

Just make sure they don't come out too far, especially if one is sticking.