raYzerman wrote: ↑Sat Aug 07, 2021 6:56 pm
I can almost buy that..... what other bike tires you know are like that? What if my rear tire is under braking and not drive? What if my front is not braking and I get into one of those waterlogged hollows during rain where the trucks have all been going?
Hoping Festus remembers which direction his fronts were mounted........
Yup. Works better one way than the other.
All tires I have used on FJR have diagonal tread grooves in opposite directions front/rear.
Have seen tires with tread the same both ways but still had front/rear direction arrows opposite. The classic Dunlop K81 for instance. One tire was used front and rear but had two direction arrows. We were told the carcass was optimized to carry loads in those directions.
I bought a $20 brake mount off a 2014 on eBay, and ordered new bolts from Partzilla for good measure.
Did about 500 miles today. Stripped bolt didn’t fall out. No fiery crash. But I didn’t use the rear brake at all.
bill lumberg wrote: ↑Thu Aug 05, 2021 8:09 pm
When putting everything back together, the lower brake caliper bolt pulled the threads, all of them, out of the caliper mount, as pretty as you please. There was never any resistance at all.
Damn you Bill. I read this and then thought "Wow, that sucks!"
Then I went out to install my forks, snugged up the upper bolt on the left side by hand then grabbed the torque wrench. It turned a bit and then "POP!!" Turned it back out and the bolt brought the threads from the upper triple with it.
Off to the ebay for me.
Update: Ebay has shit. One that I have to get the ignition bolts out that have been cut off. I see that red loctite in there, no thanks. Another with complete ignition, that'd make things super easy aside from having the mismatching keys, except they don't have the keys. In a perfect world that 2014/2015 would be super easy. Except it looks like a slight part number change between 2007 and 2014.
2007 - 3P6-23435-00-00
2014 - 3P6-23435-10-00
Looks like rake and trail remained the same, I bet it'd work but with NAFO coming up I don't have time to screw around, so I ordered new from Partzilla. If anyone has any input while I might still have time to cancel my order, please let me know.
bill lumberg wrote: ↑Thu Aug 05, 2021 8:09 pm
When putting everything back together, the lower brake caliper bolt pulled the threads, all of them, out of the caliper mount, as pretty as you please. There was never any resistance at all.
Damn you Bill. I read this and then thought "Wow, that sucks!"
Then I went out to install my forks, snugged up the upper bolt on the left side by hand then grabbed the torque wrench. It turned a bit and then "POP!!" Turned it back out and the bolt brought the threads from the upper triple with it.
Off to the ebay for me.
Update: Ebay has shit. One that I have to get the ignition bolts out that have been cut off. I see that red loctite in there, no thanks. Another with complete ignition, that'd make things super easy aside from having the mismatching keys, except they don't have the keys. In a perfect world that 2014/2015 would be super easy. Except it looks like a slight part number change between 2007 and 2014.
2007 - 3P6-23435-00-00
2014 - 3P6-23435-10-00
Looks like rake and trail remained the same, I bet it'd work but with NAFO coming up I don't have time to screw around, so I ordered new from Partzilla. If anyone has any input while I might still have time to cancel my order, please let me know.
Slight colour change!! Only difference I know of......
If that's the case, the why has everyone, including HeliBars, said that the replacement top plate for Gen2 A model doesn't fit Gen3 A model? Something's different in the fit then, right?
I've got my '07 OE factory top plate if you need it in a pinch. If you get one of those "delivery delayed" emails, lemme know!
I see no reason they don't fit, colours did change with Gen3 for trim and engine, etc., also seems Heli says one part for 2006-up (now).
As for ignition switch bolts, likely had the recall, once heads off bolts, no pressure on them, should be able to remove with vice grips or such. Replace with standard 8mm screws.
Keep yer stick on the ice........... (Red Green)
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.
This weekend she got a throttle body cleaning (found a little crack in small vacuum hose. replaced) Air filter ok. (only about 6k mi on it.)
Checked injectors for anything abnormal. Nothing found and looks clean.
Have been experiencing a little wobble so went in and checked steering head bearings (looked to be fine) torque to spec.
Tires came in this weekend. So that's next.
Somehow I used the last three crush washers on the last oil change. Waiting on a shipment, as I am overdue for this one. Had a good looong day on the road yesterday with my oldest. Both his HD and my fjr performed flawlessly.
bill lumberg wrote: ↑Sun Aug 08, 2021 10:02 am
Somehow I used the last three crush washers on the last oil change. Waiting on a shipment, as I am overdue for this one. Had a good looong day on the road yesterday with my oldest. Both his HD and my fjr performed flawlessly.
I am still using the original crush(ed) washers on my 2011 (87,000 miles).
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Finished the maintenance with a clutch and front brake fluid change. Out of dot4 but at least some new fluid in brake system. Clutch fluid was original. It needed changed.
Valve check yielded all good with two intake valves just under .007. It will wait. Thanks to Bkrchuck for his time and expertise and bringing his metric feeler guages. I need a set. Ready for EOM.
Last edited by Spininprop on Sun Aug 08, 2021 6:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Got the ignition drilled out of the old triple. Thought I'd drill the heads off the bolts, seemed easy enough. Ended up being easier to drag out the extractors and they popped out smoother than I thought they would.
bill lumberg and raYzerman loved this
YouTube Channel | My Blog Current Bikes:2007 Yamaha FJR1300AE | 2016 KTM 1190 Adventure R | 2001 Suzuki DRZ-400E | 2020 KTM 500 XCF-W Son's Bike:2019 Honda CRF250L
I'm here to serve as an example of what NOT to do.
gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Sun Aug 08, 2021 4:28 pm
Got the ignition drilled out of the old triple. Thought I'd drill the heads off the bolts, seemed easy enough. Ended up being easier to drag out the extractors and they popped out smoother than I thought they would.
When I drilled out the bolts in the CB's triple I gave up and went with the dremel and tungsten carbide bits. I should have started there. It was a lot faster.
But the Dremel branded bits are not good tungsten carbide (I question whether they are at all). I ordered some no name China ones that have been 10x better even when working with hardened steel. Mack tools also sells some but they're $$$ for a hobbyist/farmer.
Changed out the feckin stiff sidewalled rear T31 bitch and replaced with a PR4 rear I hope to get 6k out of for the upcoming NAFO trip. Wish me luck.
PS- ive replaced T30s before, and I thought id replaced T31s as well. Getting that bitch on and off was no fun. No more T31s for me...and it only gave me 3300 miles.
Washed it. And pumped some loctite in the hole where my lower rear caliper bolt stripped out the caliper. I got a replacement mount, but what I really needed was the caliper. And I’ve found zero freestanding calipers for sale.
As the bolt has not moved in over 1,000 miles, I’m not concerned about it. I just check it and make sure it hasn’t moved. This is such a low stress bolt that I may helicoil it and call it good.
It’s been a while since I’ve had traumatic brain injury. It might be time to swap on the Aeroflow again.
Got it back from the valve check and some other maintenance. Now that I retired I need to learn to do this stuff myself. Dealers are expensive.
Rode it today and it seems fine. Ready to travel.
bill lumberg wrote: ↑Sat Aug 14, 2021 11:29 am
Washed it. And pumped some loctite in the hole where my lower rear caliper bolt stripped out the caliper. I got a replacement mount, but what I really needed was the caliper. And I’ve found zero freestanding calipers for sale.
As the bolt has not moved in over 1,000 miles, I’m not concerned about it. I just check it and make sure it hasn’t moved. This is such a low stress bolt that I may helicoil it and call it good.
It’s been a while since I’ve had traumatic brain injury. It might be time to swap on the Aeroflow again.
Helicoil or Time-Sert it..... there's two of those bolts, yes? If the other one is good, not too too much to worry about, but you need it fixed.
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Keep yer stick on the ice........... (Red Green)
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.
bill lumberg wrote: ↑Sat Aug 14, 2021 11:29 am
As the bolt has not moved in over 1,000 miles, I’m not concerned about it. I just check it and make sure it hasn’t moved. This is such a low stress bolt that I may helicoil it and call it good.
A Helicoil/Time-sert thread is stronger than threads cut in aluminum. We used to put Time-serts in new aluminum plate bolt holes for Navy applications. Problem is a Time-sert kit to do the first couple holes was about $60. Parts to do subsequent holes were really cheap compared to that.
