Tank bolts......OH #$#@!!

[Steel_Gin]

I can't believe this happened but it has. I have always been careful removing the two hex bolts that are at the top of the tank and can't point to a time when I could have screwed it up. I just finished doing a throttle body sync and buttoning everything back up. I was putting the bolts back in, they were going in nice & easy, when I went to snug one of them up (throttle side) it didn't stop turning. (The other one is perfectly fine.) I look, well shit, the head is stripped. I had the hex on an extender, gave it a few really good whacks knowing I only have one chance of getting that to work and of course no luck. Now it's toast and I'm pissed.

As easily as this happened I'm thinking this isn't the first time this has. I am sure the number of tries I have at getting it out are limited so I need to know what I need to do to get it out on the first try. Help!!

[N4HHE]

Tank in place, one bolt is spinning in stripped threads? Or the hex socket bolt head is stripped? Either is much easier than if the bolt broke in the hole.

If threads are stripped then remove the other bolt then use something to pry/lift the tank lip while attempting to unscrew the problem bolt. I prefer Timesert brand thread repair. Sad news is a kit may cost $30-$50. Maybe a machine shop can quickly repair the threads for $20?

The pretty bolt Yamaha uses is rather special. Big head. Otherwise one might retap the threads using the next larger size. I dropped one inside the bowels of my FJR and never saw it again. Had to buy another.

If the hex is stripped then a Dremel cutoff wheel can create a flat screwdriver slit to remove the bolt.

[Red]

Steel_Gin,

If only the hex head is stripped, the right size of screw extractor might lock in, to turn out the screw.

[Steel_Gin]

Tank in place, one bolt is spinning in stripped threads? Or the hex socket bolt head is stripped? Either is much easier than if the bolt broke in the hole.

If threads are stripped then remove the other bolt then use something to pry/lift the tank lip while attempting to unscrew the problem bolt. I prefer Timesert brand thread repair. Sad news is a kit may cost $30-$50. Maybe a machine shop can quickly repair the threads for $20?

The pretty bolt Yamaha uses is rather special. Big head. Otherwise one might retap the threads using the next larger size. I dropped one inside the bowels of my FJR and never saw it again. Had to buy another.

If the hex is stripped then a Dremel cutoff wheel can create a flat screwdriver slit to remove the bolt.

Sorry, the head is stripped......I'll edit my original post. The threads in the hole are fine.

[FJRPittsburgh]

Poop

[raYzerman]

Get a Torx bit that fits best you can and an impact driver....

[bungie4]

Get a Torx bit that fits best you can and an impact driver....

This man knows his tricksies. I've used the same technique on others situations.

[N4HHE]

Get a Torx bit that fits best you can and an impact driver....

There is probably a Torx just a bit larger with sharp points that one might hammer the bit into the bolt. I’d expect the Torx bit be sacrificed.

Or use a cutoff wheel to cut a slit in the head. You could use a flat blade screwdriver at an angle and off center, with a hammer, to turn the bolt.

Back in the 1970s we stripped the heck out of Philips case screws on Japanese engines. Partly for using #2 on #3 heads. Partly for US cut screwdriver vs JASO.

[escapefjrtist]

Not the first report. Yamaha must have the tank screws made from a special grade of butter... When you get the screw out (and you will) replace them with a SS socket head cap screw with the appropriate SS washer or a flange screw / bolt.

Good luck!

~G

[N4HHE]

The front tank bolts only have to be tight enough to not fall out. Gas tank isn’t going anywhere unless motorcycle is upside down.

[Canadian FJR]

You could also try mixing up some JB weld and insert your hex bit. Leave it to harden overnight.

Might be enough to back it out

And be sure to put a towel or tape on the tank so you don’t scratch it.

Also as an FYI, the old Gen 1s didn’t have the fancy button head hex bolts. Just regular hex bolts.

Canadian FJR

[wheatonFJR]

The front tank bolts only have to be tight enough to not fall out. Gas tank isn’t going anywhere unless motorcycle is upside down.

Yeah, that never happens.

[N4HHE]

The front tank bolts only have to be tight enough to not fall out. Gas tank isn’t going anywhere unless motorcycle is upside down.

Yeah, that never happens.

But even then, finger tight will hold the gas tank in place.

[Auburn]

I put anti seize on mine, and then run them in finger tight with a "T" handle. They don't back out, and hold the tank just fine. No issues with stripping the bolts.

[Canadian FJR]

Waiting on an update ………


Canadian FJR

[rbentnail]

The other thing I do along with a dab of antiseize- you know the little plastic washers that go under the heads of some of the fairing button head screws? I put 1 under each of the tank screws. Keeps the head from binding to the frame.

[Steel_Gin]

Thank you for all of the suggestions!!

A T30 torx was too small but thought a T40 was too big and I didn't have a T35 in my set. I bought a cheap T35 and T40 as a backup since I didn't want to sacrifice the good one in my set.....good thing I did. Couldn't find a T35 locally, even in the sets all I saw they all had T30 then T40, so I turned to Amazon and waited the two days for delivery. Pounded the T35 in with a socket extender attached, used a multi speed impact drill. Lowest setting (1) didn't budge it all, tried speed 2 and it stripped it out. Well Damn!! Pounded in the cheap T40 with the socket extender attached, back to speed 1 on the impact drill it didn't move at all, hit it with speed 2 and thankfully it backed it out on the second try!! Success!!

Now my next question. A co-worked said to make sure you don't use a bolt that will react badly to the frame metal......good suggestion I thought. The bolt that was in there is Stainless Steel, correct? Or is there another option I should use to replace them? I won't be replacing with an Allen head bolt that's for sure.

[Red]

Steel_Gin,

Screws and bolts seize in place due to Galvanic Corrosion. There are lists of metals called the Galvanic Series (some Lists are more complete than others). The closer two metals are located on the List, the less they will react (to seize) with each other. If any two metals are far apart on the Lists, Galvanic Corrosion will be a problem in short order. Then, the correct flavor of Anti-Seize compound will give good help there. Anti-Seize comes in various flavors; you want the one containing metal located between your two unfriendly metals. Use a copper Anti-Seize compound between titanium and aluminum materials, as one example. Check the labels on the Anti-Seize compounds available to you. No one "flavor" of Anti-Seize compound fits all.
https://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Defin ... series.htm

[rbentnail]

Now my next question. A co-worked said to make sure you don't use a bolt that will react badly to the frame metal......good suggestion I thought. The bolt that was in there is Stainless Steel, correct? Or is there another option I should use to replace them? I won't be replacing with an Allen head bolt that's for sure.

Pardon my ignorance, but did you not read the post directly before yours that addresses this specific topic?

[Canadian FJR]

Glad everything worked out.

Now get some new bolts, a little anti-seize and just snug them up gently.


Canadian FJR