Tech section strictly for the FJR. Everything from oil changes & suspension setup's to removing sheep hair from hard to reach places on the bike so that your wife never finds out.
Glad to see you got it sorted out! Never cut corners, always check your work. There's a reason there's timing marks and pictures in the book on how to use them. One thing I wish the book illustrated is to check the timing marks BEFORE starting so you know exactly what to look for later. Your experience this go-round was my experience in 2009 and is the reason I have always said "CHECK THE DAMN TIMING MARKS BEFORE BUTTONING UP". I know others believe tywraps and sockets and all that other bullshit works but it doesn't ALWAYS work, as evidenced here. Checking timing marks is fool proof, even for we hard headed, industrial strength fools.
You're welcome, no need to thank me . Live and learn. Good on you for sticking with it. I was just as frustrated and angry at myself back then, too. We get it. I'll celebrate your victory with you !
A telescopic inspection mirror & a strong flashlight are necessary toolbox items for this job to check the cam timing marks. If you don't have them put them at the top of the list for purchase.
John d wrote: ↑Fri Apr 30, 2021 10:26 pm
I bought a paint marker pen for next time.
I think I will scribe a horizontal line on the sprocket the next time although a paint marker and a couple of strategically placed dots would be helpful.
rbentnail wrote: ↑Fri Apr 30, 2021 9:19 pm
A telescopic inspection mirror & a strong flashlight are necessary toolbox items for this job to check the cam timing marks. If you don't have them put them at the top of the list for purchase.
I have a telescoping inspection mirror and a decent LED flashlight. Still had trouble - even when I could see the marks, parallax made it difficult to tell whether they were above or below the edge of the engine casing. I have a thin narrow metal ruler I was able to lay along the engine case that helped a lot.
Still need a test ride to make sure. Was cold, rainy and windy here today.
^^^
Nice picture. Too bad it isn't that obvious with the engine in the bike!
Valuable lesson learned and a mistake I won't make the next time. I was lucky that it wasn't out enough to grenade the engine although I suppose that would have been obvious when rotating the engine by hand.
Anyway, all back together today and I managed a short (100 km) run to check it out. No stumble, vibration, poor mileage or lack of acceleration so I guess I must have got it right. No parts missing and no parts left over! Broke one push-pin rivet and lost TWO TBS cap spring clips into the bowels of the bike. Decided not to turn it over and give it a shake to dislodge them.
Hppants, John d, raYzerman and 2 others loved this
It would actually be difficult to be more than one tooth off with a shim or CCT change.... two teeth off might cause interference but I don't know that for sure... those situations happened when CCT's failed and engines got grenaded. MIghta taken 3 teeth to be off, who knows.
Anyway, happy happy, good news!
Keep yer stick on the ice........... (Red Green)
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.
. Live and learn. Good on you for sticking with it. I was just as frustrated and angry at myself back then, too. We get it. I'll celebrate your victory with you 
! 
