3 Pin Connector Under Seat

[N4HHE]

Wiring USB+voltmeter today went looking for a safe switched circuit to tap. Battery compartment and fuses are a mess. Thought about using the OBD-II connector under seat but it is unswitched. But next to it is a triangular 3 pin with matching plug lacking pins. Contains 12v unswitched , 12v switched, and ground.

Several hours of headache with the FSM was of little help. The schematic indexes doesn’t appear to match the schematics. Sometimes the A index better matches the ES schematic, and vice versa.

It could be for the immobilizer system which my USA model lacks. Other hints suggest an air bag which is totally unexpected.

Am guessing that I am safe with a 3 amp load, but realize I’m just guessing. Not hugely confident as running voltage varies 0.5v, a but more than expected. Only rode 4.7 miles at 37° and 4 year old OE battery was 12.0v before starting. So battery needs more charge, perhaps the R/R was hunting to discover what was needed?

[Intech]

Based on the statement, "battery compartment and fuses are a mess" I am assuming that you you have several aftermarket items powered. If that is the case then you really need to install an Fuzeblock. You can mount it under the seat and power all accessories from there, switched or un-switched. Then the only extra connection to the battery is the power supply for the Fuzeblock. It needs a switched power source also. I tapped into the glove box latch solenoid.

[Madmudder]

I chose to do like Bob said above except I chose the tail light for the trigger wire for switched items. The Fuzeblock mounts like it was made to be there in the tail section & changing a fuse is a lot more simple under the seat than getting to the battery.
https://www.fuzeblocks.com/

[raYzerman]

The three-way triangular connector is used by a dealer to connect his laptop, and it has been on Gen2-up FJR's since 2006. Not sure about Gen1 if it had it or not.
Note, there is a harness going to the rear for the lighting, and right beside it is two bullet connectors which is the licence plate light. Either tap into the blue tail light wire or the blue-ish (might be blue/red) licence light wire, both will work fine as a trigger wire for fuseblock or a USB/voltmeter.

[Red]

N4HHE,

+1 on the relay-switched Fuzeblock. Switch the relay On/Off with almost any 12V switched line, because relays need very little power to switch the relay.

You will want to get full battery power going direct to the relay-switched contacts. Each accessory wire will be fused inside the Fuzeblock, no sweat. This link (from Madmudder) shows one nice unit, and illustrates the best installation:
https://www.fuzeblocks.com/
Set up the Fuzeblock internal fuses so that every line is switched by the relay, unless you need fused 12V constant power for something that never turns off (which could drain the battery).
.

[N4HHE]

Based on the statement, "battery compartment and fuses are a mess" I am assuming that you you have several aftermarket items powered.

My poor choice of words late at night. The only thing extra in the battery compartment is an SAE pigtail for the battery maintainer, which also works nice for my 12V tire inflator.

"The mess" is that everything is already tight. No ready means of reaching a wire I could cleanly tap. However the next morning has me thinking I could have used the ABS test plug.

Edit: SAE pigtail and Garmin Zumo 595 power is directly attached to battery. The excess Garmin cables are stuffed in the void in painted fairing next to gas tank.

[ionbeam]

Based on the statement, "battery compartment and fuses are a mess" I am assuming that you you have several aftermarket items powered.

My poor choice of words late at night. The only thing extra in the battery compartment is an SAE pigtail for the battery maintainer, which also works nice for my 12V tire inflator.

"The mess" is that everything is already tight. No ready means of reaching a wire I could cleanly tap. However the next morning has me thinking I could have used the ABS test plug.

Or the wire to the outlet in the glove box, a not critical power source.

[N4HHE]

The three-way triangular connector is used by a dealer to connect his laptop, and it has been on Gen2-up FJR's since 2006. Not sure about Gen1 if it had it or not.

You mean to say there is data on that plug? That I am measuring voltage of a digital signal? Don't want to carry my oscilloscope out to check. Kicking myself for not taking pictures, but if memory serves there was a black wire which had a 0 ohm connection to the chassis, then a red/something 12V and a red/somethingelse seemed to be switched 12V. 12V on reds seems to agree with the schematic convention.

I have a 2016 where the ECU speaks OBD-II, not the old Yamaha protocol. There is an 8" pigtail with 4 pin plug with rubber boot cover where the OBD-II adapter goes (because Yamaha didn't fit the right connector). I know this 4 pin because I have the adapter and had to clear my CEL for spinning rear wheel in 1st gear on centerstand. Also 1 or 2 pins indicated 2VDC or so with the cheap DVM I was using when ignition was on. Typical of data. I didn't think to switch to AC mode to verify data was present.

[N4HHE]

Or the wire to the outlet in the glove box, a not critical power source.

Yes, that was high on my list but from the battery end I was having trouble finding it. Pretty sure the fuse is labeled "TERMINAL" or something like that, the only 3A fuse.

My USB/voltmeter is installed through the battery compartment cover on inside rear corner.

Stand corrected: SAE pigtail and Garmin Zumo 595 power is directly attached to battery. The excess Garmin cables are stuffed in the void in painted fairing next to gas tank.

[FJRoss]

I would not choose to trigger a fuzeblock relay for switched/unswitched power from the glovebox outlet. While there is plenty of power to operate the relay, it is a circuit that can easily be blown by almost anything being plugged in. Fuzeblock referenced by Red, above, works well for me. My only beef was the 10 amp per circuit limit when I wanted to run auxiliary LED lights from a switched circuit. Would have drawn just over that...
Lights are "currently" hooked up directly although I am planning to use a "barrier strip" to power such high current devices. I hate having stuff hang off the battery.

[Canadian FJR]

I tapped into the power switch going to the aux power plug in the glove box for the relay for my auxiliary lights.

Canadian FJR

[ionbeam]

Most headlight/horn type relays have coils that draw between 0.060 and 0.15 amps. Typically, a relay rated for 20A to 30A through the contacts will have coil current draw in the 0.06 to 0.08 range. That's not a lot of extra power to ask of the glove box circuit.

[Blister_1]

Does someone have instructions for installing a fuseblock, or can point me in the direction of them?

[Uncle Hud]

+1 for Fuzeblock under the seat. Switched like Intech: solenoid controlling latch for glovebox lid.

[FJRoss]

Most headlight/horn type relays have coils that draw between 0.060 and 0.15 amps. Typically, a relay rated for 20A to 30A through the contacts will have coil current draw in the 0.06 to 0.08 range. That's not a lot of extra power to ask of the glove box circuit.

Understood - the relay in the Fuzeblock doesn't draw enough current to matter. However, the glovebox circuit is the most vulnerable circuit on the bike because of the other stuff that gets plugged in there. We (should) all know that the circuit will not support a compressor or heated gear but even using the outlet for charging some newer electronic stuff can bring it close to the edge.
The latest phones, tablets, power banks etc. can demand a fair amount of power to charge. I am using the glovebox for that because it is convenient but I probably should use a switched circuit on my Fuzeblock. (Especially for power bank and Li-ion jumpstarter.)

[raYzerman]

The three-way triangular connector is used by a dealer to connect his laptop, and it has been on Gen2-up FJR's since 2006. Not sure about Gen1 if it had it or not.

You mean to say there is data on that plug? That I am measuring voltage of a digital signal? Don't want to carry my oscilloscope out to check. Kicking myself for not taking pictures, but if memory serves there was a black wire which had a 0 ohm connection to the chassis, then a red/something 12V and a red/somethingelse seemed to be switched 12V. 12V on reds seems to agree with the schematic convention.

I have a 2016 where the ECU speaks OBD-II, not the old Yamaha protocol. There is an 8" pigtail with 4 pin plug with rubber boot cover where the OBD-II adapter goes (because Yamaha didn't fit the right connector). I know this 4 pin because I have the adapter and had to clear my CEL for spinning rear wheel in 1st gear on centerstand. Also 1 or 2 pins indicated 2VDC or so with the cheap DVM I was using when ignition was on. Typical of data. I didn't think to switch to AC mode to verify data was present.

I don't know that there's data in the three-way, it is a communication port for the laptop (and dealer-only software)... it may carry data if the laptop needs it, but if there's a software reflash required, that's what the dealer will plug into.
The OBD has of course data, and possibly the dealer has an adapter harness to plug into his laptop (software) that may be acting as an OBD reader with all the Yammy specific codes. Of course, we can use a cheap OBD reader and a cheap app to view those codes as well, but I suspect the dealer's stuff is way more sophisticated.