SH__37 issue with the YCCS bikes

[HotRodZilla]

I was gonna do some maintenance on my Clutch Actuator today, but upon visual inspection, it seems fine!

[Brodie]

Hey Brodie!

... I was thinking of ordering new actuators. I know it's a huge expense, but they would work for another 10 years. It's just a question of what specific parts to buy

Should I bite the bullet and spend over $3000 for both actuators? Cheaper than buying a new bike. What parts do you think I should purchase to make things right again? I only want to tear down this bike once and do the necessary repairs.

Jeff
The shift actuator is a quick R&R job, with two screws to remove, and two connectors to release. I don’t want to scare ya, but a brand new shift actuator from Partzilla will set you back $1,801.78 - OUCH !!! As you can see above, the clutch actuator is $1,636.13


But wait, there’s more. To get to the clutch actuator you need to remove the swing arm. If you haven’t done it yet, it’s not that hard, just time consuming. Don’t attempt it without the service manual nearby. Being that deep, you will have an attack of the dreaded ”You might as wells”. Count on replacing some(?) of the suspension linkage needle bearing/pivot shaft(s). If it’s been a while you probably should service/replace your mono-shock. And, of course since you’re that deep, at least do a clutch master cylinder rebuild and hydraulic hose replacement; while you’re at it, the clutch slave cylinder should be replaced.


Need I tally up the Partzilla bill so far?

Again, try just servircing the shift actuator first.


Brodie

[FJRPittsburgh]

You're the best Brodie! I've actually had the shift actuator off before when you suggested sealing around the electrical connections. I feel I'll have no trouble removing that again and taking it apart this time to service it. Maybe that will fix my problem temporarily until I have to access the clutch actuator.

I'm not looking forward to that job due to having to rig something up to support the rear end of the bike. I do need a new rear shock for sure. Close to 60,000 miles on the FJR since I've been riding the FZ-07 and the Tracer GT quite a bit. Now I'm playing with a 2018 Kawasaki Z125 Pro that I picked up early in the week. That little thing is fun!

[FJRPittsburgh]

When removing the Clutch Actuator, your bike appears to be on the center stand in the pics. Why does it need to be supported from above?

[raYzerman]

When removing the Clutch Actuator, your bike appears to be on the center stand in the pics. Why does it need to be supported from above?

I suspect, to enable removing the centerstand to get at that suspension pivot up front....

[Brodie]

^^^^^^^
Already did that job earlier.
2 reasons...
1. I’m removing the swing arm and crawling under the rear end. Ain’t no way it’s gonna fall on me!
2. I need to get it up high to clear that rear reflector on the fender Removing the rear tire with that big piece of meat on that rim.

Brodie

[raYzerman]

Oh yeah... that.... If a rear tar change occurs coincidental with front tar change, you can remove front and lower the front end (I have jack under the headers fer that job). Car Tar goes in more gooder then. 2x6 under the centerstand works too, but need same under the back tar so you can get it up.......

[FJRPittsburgh]

So, with 2 weeks before EOM, I decided to clean the shift actuator. All went well with the cleaning of the commutator, etc. Got it all back correctly. Installed the shift actuator on the bike, attached the shift rod, the holes line up as they should. Everything looks beautiful. I turned the key on to see how she would shift on the centerstand.

2 errors pop up on the dashboard display. Sh_19 and Sh_51. Checked all the electrical connections as it says in the full service manual. All electrical pins line up and connectors snap on firmly. Evidently a sensor isn't happy and neither am I. Anyone have a clue as to what the problem could be?

[gixxerjasen]

I see your issue, and have no suggestions, but I'm also not ignoring you and hope this bump gets it to someone who can help.

[wnyfjr]

Any chance there's some foreign material in one of the connectors somewhere? Piece of debris preventing a contact somewhere? Not the best suggestion, but at the moment it's all I got!

[raYzerman]

Not an expert either..... grasping at straws.... I take it with those two codes, if active, bike will not start. Is it possible shift rod adjustment required? Perhaps remove shift rod and see if sensor now properly senses neutral?
What about gear position switch.... remove, clean it, reinstall??

[FJRPittsburgh]

Thanks guys! Connections definitely clean. I could remove the shift rod to see if it finds a natural starting position. Gear position switch? Not sure what that is. I'll look into it.

[raYzerman]

Gear position switch (AKA Neutral Switch) is located above the shifter linkage. It has a spring-loaded brass pin which makes contact with each brass contact for each gear, thus tells the ECU what gear you're in. Oil accumulates and the brass can tarnish a smidge which can result in flaky contact. Two screws to remove (it has an o-ring) and it pulls right out. Clean out the oily stuff, lightly shine up the brass (no sandpaper) and put it back together... quick job. Black oval looking thing with a protected wire coming out of it, headed toward the rear of the engine.
Service manual page 8-203 item 11.

[FJRPittsburgh]

Thanks for the ideas Ray. I'll definitely give that a look. Sure is frustrating to have a cleaning go so well on the shift actuator and then have this happen. Always something. I'm pretty patient with with this stuff and determined to find a fix.

It's a peculiar problem with the shift rod. It has a hole in the shift rod and a hole in the actuator that have to line up. They are lined up perfectly. I was really surprised to see these two error codes thrown.

The neutral light is lit when I turn the key on. When I manually move the shift rod to simulate shifting gears, It registers on the dash that it's changing gears. When the shift rod comes to it's natural position after shifting, the holes are lined up showing that it's adjusted properly.

[Brodie]

Jeff
Right off the top of my head I can think of a couple of things – the basics…

Did you have more than these two electrical connectors undone? Perhaps you got them mixed up with another system.

Check that you didn’t pinch a wire, or pig tail.

These two alarms happened since you worked on this system. Before digging deeper into the bike, taking more things apart, keep working on this, perhaps even removing the shift actuator again to verify it is indeed reassembled correctly.

Most importantly, check that the center punch marks align on the shift actuator output shaft and linkage arm.



There is a limited amount of rotation on this unit. The shift drum mechanism return springs cause the linkage to return to center when at rest. If its off one spline tooth, and the alignment holes are in sync, then SH__51 is thrown. If its off several spline teeth, then it’s possible that the sensor voltage is out of range (<.5v or >4.5v), thereby throwing SH__19; my guess being it should be sensing 2.5v when at rest.

BTDT with SH__51.

Hope this helps.

Brodie

[Brodie]

Gear position switch (AKA Neutral Switch) is located above the shifter linkage…
… Black oval looking thing with a protected wire coming out of it, headed toward the rear of the engine.
Service manual page 8-203 item 11.

Ray, you forget, this is the Advanced Edition FJR being discussed. If you open your ‘06 service manual to page 8-207 you will see that the primitive gear position sensor on your bike has been replaced with a more refined system – item 10 Neutral Switch, and item 12 YCC-S speed sensor.

Good guess though.

Brodie

[Brodie]

Jeff

Once again, this is a thread documenting my journey trying to track down and correct the root cause for the SH__37 fault code. If I recall correctly, your complaint is the delayed shift behavior. In my experience it is caused by air in the hydraulic clutch line. I have induced it to several degrees from a slight delay, to a shudder from a standing stop, simply by introducing more and more air in the line.

If you note, several posts above, I have pictured the original clutch slave cylinder from my high mileage '08. It's a large diameter, short throw piston, which tends to be side loaded. Through the years and miles the bore had become scored to the point where the clutch fluid piston seal was letting trace amounts of air into the system. It got so bad that a thorough bleed would only last a day or two.

Out of frustration I replaced the hydraulic circuit with fresh OEM parts from Partzilla. Thats a new slave cylinder, a master cylinder rebuild kit, and a fresh hose connecting them. Up until just recently the delayed shift went away. After about 8 months, I think it's time to bleed the system again as the occasional delayed shift is back along with a momentary clutch stumble when accelerating from a standing stop. The slave cylinder was easy to get to, and I believe the master cylinder can be removed with the swing arm in place, however, the hydraulic hose replacement necessitated digging it all out.

I think you should at least replace the slave cylinder with a brand new one from Yamaha. That was the wear item on my hydraulic system.

Just a suggestion.


Brodie

[raYzerman]

Gear position switch (AKA Neutral Switch) is located above the shifter linkage…
… Black oval looking thing with a protected wire coming out of it, headed toward the rear of the engine.
Service manual page 8-203 item 11.

Ray, you forget, this is the Advanced Edition FJR being discussed. If you open your ‘06 service manual to page 8-207 you will see that the primitive gear position sensor on your bike has been replaced with a more refined system – item 10 Neutral Switch, and item 12 YCC-S speed sensor.

Good guess though.

Brodie

Ooops, I was on the wrong page..... if Neutral light is working, then carry on.

[FJRPittsburgh]

Per Brodie: Most importantly, check that the center punch marks align on the shift actuator output shaft and linkage arm.

Ha Ha Ha. When I looked at my situation more closely yesterday, I said to Trevor, "I wonder if those 2 dots are supposed to be lined up?"

I'm sure that's the issue. I took the shift actuator off for a second time yesterday, it's definitely put together correctly. Connectors are connected properly. Nothing is pinched except for my ego.

Now the question is, how do I turn the shaft on the actuator to get the punch marks lined up with the shift rod without damaging anything? Also, when noticing those punch marks yesterday, I could find nothing in the full service manual to show that the punch marks are supposed to be lined up. Maybe I got so frustrated that I didn't see it, but I don't think so.

Again, Brodie is the best. Between him and Mac, I've learned so much about my AE over the years. Thanks guys!

[FJRPittsburgh]

Per Brodie: Most importantly, check that the center punch marks align on the shift actuator output shaft and linkage arm.

Ha Ha Ha. When I looked at my situation more closely yesterday, I said to Trevor, "I wonder if those 2 dots are supposed to be lined up?"

I'm sure that's the issue. I took the shift actuator off for a second time yesterday, it's definitely put together correctly. Connectors are connected properly. Nothing is pinched except for my ego.

Now the question is, how do I turn the shaft on the actuator to get the punch marks lined up with the shift rod without damaging anything? Also, when noticing those punch marks yesterday, I could find nothing in the full service manual to show that the punch marks are supposed to be lined up. Maybe I got so frustrated that I didn't see it, but I don't think so.

Again, Brodie is the best. Between him and Mac, I've learned so much about my AE over the years. Thanks guys!

I answered my own question. I took an old leather belt to wrap over the splines an used a pair of pliers to twist the shaft into the proper position to match the dots up. Bike starts right up! No error codes either!

Now I have to get the other parts that Brodie recommended. Then I can botch that up and add to this terrific thread. Now at least the AE will start and run even if I get the delayed shift until I get the other parts needed to rebuild the clutch master cylinder, etc.

Again, Thanks Brodie! You are a life saver and a wealth of knowledge on the AE. I wouldn't even be concerned about buying a used AE knowing how to maintain it now.