Handle Bar Diameter

[Steel_Gin]

On the left handlebar, between the windshield button and the clutch reservoir there is a small gap. I want to use that space to put a clamp to mount a cruise control controller. I don't have anything other than eyeballing with a tape measure to measure the diameter of the handlebar, I came up with 7/8 inch or 22mm for those of you with those funny tape measures north of the border. I just want to make sure I have the diameter correct before ordering a clamp.

I know some have mounted it to the reservoir by grinding out a small gap, I would rather use the clamp to start off with.

Thanks for the help and I hope everyone is staying healthy!!

[SLK50]

With a very few exceptions, handlebars on metric bikes
are 7/8”.

[Red]

Steel_Gin,

When you need a caliper but do not have one handy, just bend a "C" shape from suitably stiff steel wire, such as coat hanger wire. Make the "C" large enough to span the object to be measured, within the end points of the "C."

Bend the "C" more open or more closed until the points just touch the object (handlebar) on each side. Then measure across the points of the "C" with any measuring stick.

BTW, FJR handlebars are 7/8" (22mm) in diameter, as said earlier. HTH.

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[Steel_Gin]

Steel_Gin,

When you need a caliper but do not have one handy, just bend a "C" shape from suitably stiff steel wire, such as coat hanger wire. Make the "C" large enough to span the object to be measured, within the end points of the "C."

Bend the "C" more open or more closed until the points just touch the object (handlebar) on each side. Then measure across the points of the "C" with any measuring stick.

BTW, FJR handlebars are 7/8" (22mm) in diameter, as said earlier. HTH.

.

Great idea!! Thank you for the tip and confirmation.

[Steel_Gin]

Now it's a matter of finding a clamp that is 13mm wide to fit in the space.

[Red]

Now it's a matter of finding a clamp that is 13mm wide to fit in the space.

Steel_Gin,

I bought a bench-mounted belt sander which uses a 4" (10cm) wide belt, cheap at the thrift store. With a metal-cutting belt (available at almost every hardware place), I can reduce aluminum to dust in minutes. Wear your mask & goggles, of course. Great for modifying parts on a custom basis.

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[raYzerman]

Coupla er three ways to do this...... make an aluminum bracket, drill a 3/8 hole to mount on the unused mirror screw hole (10mm thread). There are adapters to thread in this hole that are approx. 1/2" high and have a 3/8 thread on top if you don't have a 10mm. Make the bracket big enough you can bend it downward to create an angled surface to mount the cruise switch on. Customize it to suit where you want that switch.

Gen2 has lots of real estate inside the left switch housing.... get two very small micro toggle switches, which can stick up or a bit forward to easily be reached with your finger. One switch is a momentary spring-loaded left-center-right for the set and resume function, the other an on/off to turn it on or off. Drill two small holes in the switch housing... when done all you have is two little switch levers sticking out, and their retaining nuts with a bit of thread still showing... come with red or black waterproof covers that just thread on over the "levers". No brackets at all. Drill another hole to feed the wires in or perhaps they can exit where the other OEM ones do. Somebody may notice and say, what's that, and you say, my rocket science cruise control that I made myself.

You're going to either make or get a shaft clamp. Get a 3/8" or thereabouts thick piece of aluminum, just because it's easy to work with, mark a 3/4 hole ('cuz betcha you don't have a 7/8" bit, well maybe you have a hole saw). Concentric to that, mark a 1-1/4" or larger circle. Draw a line through the centers, 90 degrees to that, at the edge of the big circle draw a tangent line, 90 degrees to that draw another tangent... now you have two parallel lines, and parallel to those draw another line say at least 1/4" more... you are creating two sets of tabs to drill and tap for two machine screws that, once you split the diameter across them, become clamping screws. First drill the 3/4" hole, file out to almost 7/8", on one side create a mounting flat to attach a flat piece of thin aluminum sized to your switch. In other words, look at the clutch perch mounting, you'll end up with a smaller version of that clamping method that will fit between grip and switch pod. Ya with me now?

Or just buy a double screw shaft clamp IF you can find one in 7/8, or a 1" one and use some bicycle tube er sumpthin to reduce the ID. If not aluminum, it may be hardened steel you can't drill easily, so get longer screws, a wee sleeve spacer for each and mount the bracket on the clamp screws such that you can tighten the screws and actually make it clamp. Psst, you can always slide the grip off a bit if you need room, will then need a washer or two at the bar end to space it similarly away. Insert air nozzle at the bar end end, inflate grip, pull.

[raYzerman]

Nuther one, maybe easier... strip of 1/16" thick aluminum, envision a tab bent 90 degrees that lays against the bar, kinda form it to fit the bar. At an appropriate length away from the bar, another bend 90 degrees to form a surface to mount the cruise switch. Taper it to look engineered, file the edges smooth/sand/paint. On the formed tab, put some 3M mounting tape, stick it to the bar where you need it. Nice black zip tie, it ain't going nowhere.

I fab up little brackets and stuff all the time, just takes a little thinkin'. I'm full of them, well full of sumthin'. Looked in the mirror the other day saw a brown ring around my forehead. Dammit! Down a quart.

[Steel_Gin]

I found what I was looking for and the answer was staring me in the face the whole time. One day I glanced over at my throttle lock/cruise control and the light bulb finally went on; I need that clamp that is attached to the handle bar. Went to my father-in-law's bike shop, he had half of a cruise control/ throttle lock, the half I needed and it worked perfectly.