A few questions for the respected and great mechanical wizards of the board.
I understand the purpose of anti-seize: to prevent two dissimilar metals from binding together. My question: Which type(s) of anti-seize should be used on what types of fasteners? On Amazon I see nickel-,aluminum-, PTEF- and copper-based formulas, plus marine-grade, and some that don't specify.
Also, how does anti-seize align with thread locker? It seems anti-seize does the opposite of thread locker; anti-seize prevents bonding of bolt and hole threads allowing for easy removal, while thread locker helps bind a bolt to the hole threads to resist loosening. Or, as counterintuitive as it sounds, is thread locker a type of anti-seize because it creates a barrier between bolt and hole?
Or is this like oil - use something and don't worry about it.
Discuss...
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Anti-seize info
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Re: Anti-seize info
I would not use a threadlocker and antiseize on the same fastener.
I would not use antiseize on sparkplugs (as per NGK)
The only place I have used it on the FJR is where you have a steel bolt threading into a cast aluminum frame member. Especially engine mounting bolts. These have been known to come out with the hole threads firmly adhered to the bolt - unless of course the bolt simply snaps off in the attempt.
I would not use antiseize on sparkplugs (as per NGK)
The only place I have used it on the FJR is where you have a steel bolt threading into a cast aluminum frame member. Especially engine mounting bolts. These have been known to come out with the hole threads firmly adhered to the bolt - unless of course the bolt simply snaps off in the attempt.
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Re: Anti-seize info
Yes, anti-seize and thread locker are opposites. However, I have only once had a bolt with anti-seize come loose and that was a high heat location, where the exhaust pipe bolts to the exhaust manifold an a V8. There has been a discussion or two either on this forum or FJRForum about the different anti-seize compounds but I don't remember if there were any conclusions about the differences and their specific uses. I bought a small tube af anti-seize many years ago and have been using the same stuff in all applications requiring anti-seize. A little bit goes a long way.
Regarding using anti-seize on spark plugs, I believe that NGK recommends that you not use it because they have something already on the threads of their plugs. If you are using another brand you may want to verify with the manufacturer. That said, I have used anti-seize on spark plugs, including NGK, with no ill effect.
Regarding using anti-seize on spark plugs, I believe that NGK recommends that you not use it because they have something already on the threads of their plugs. If you are using another brand you may want to verify with the manufacturer. That said, I have used anti-seize on spark plugs, including NGK, with no ill effect.
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Re: Anti-seize info
Yes, do a little forum search for anti-seize and those threads will appear......
One place for anti-seize is the engine mount to frame bolts, as those fine threaded 12mm bolts can weld themselves in there. I have seen too many damaged threads on those, and heard of several tearing out the aluminum threads in the frame... not nice if you have to fix that. All you guys who replaced the OEM bolts with ones that came with crash bars or sliders need to go out right now and remove those bolts and put a good coating of anti-seize on them.
I will occasionally use anti-seize on spark plugs.... NGK doesn't know it all... they do have a plating that resists seizing, which is OK if you use regular plugs and change/check them as often as needed. If you have Iridiums, you're most likely the install and forget it type... use anti-seize and/or remove them and reinstall ... I'll say once a year for giggles. I have "neglected" Iridiums also, and got a bad feeling when removing them once or twice, wished I'd been smarter. Again, strip a spark plug hole and you'll not be a happy camper. When using anti-seize on plugs, use sparingly on the first two or three threads at the firing end and should be good to go. None on the elctrodes of course.
Types of anti-seize, for an FJR, just get the gray/silver stuff that uses aluminum particles in the ingredients. You are worried about the bi-metal reaction with aluminum.
One place for anti-seize is the engine mount to frame bolts, as those fine threaded 12mm bolts can weld themselves in there. I have seen too many damaged threads on those, and heard of several tearing out the aluminum threads in the frame... not nice if you have to fix that. All you guys who replaced the OEM bolts with ones that came with crash bars or sliders need to go out right now and remove those bolts and put a good coating of anti-seize on them.
I will occasionally use anti-seize on spark plugs.... NGK doesn't know it all... they do have a plating that resists seizing, which is OK if you use regular plugs and change/check them as often as needed. If you have Iridiums, you're most likely the install and forget it type... use anti-seize and/or remove them and reinstall ... I'll say once a year for giggles. I have "neglected" Iridiums also, and got a bad feeling when removing them once or twice, wished I'd been smarter. Again, strip a spark plug hole and you'll not be a happy camper. When using anti-seize on plugs, use sparingly on the first two or three threads at the firing end and should be good to go. None on the elctrodes of course.
Types of anti-seize, for an FJR, just get the gray/silver stuff that uses aluminum particles in the ingredients. You are worried about the bi-metal reaction with aluminum.
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Re: Anti-seize info
CraigRegs,
Anti-seize compound- It's all about reducing Galvanic Corrosion:
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=3904&p=84991#p84991
Thread lockers are one answer for parts coming loose by vibration,
but I like Safety Wire for things that I really want to stay together.
I can buy or drill the heads of most hardware, for use with Safety Wire.
You can get things like FJR oil drain plugs pre-drilled, so I'm not the only guy doing this.
.
Anti-seize compound- It's all about reducing Galvanic Corrosion:
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=3904&p=84991#p84991
Thread lockers are one answer for parts coming loose by vibration,
but I like Safety Wire for things that I really want to stay together.
I can buy or drill the heads of most hardware, for use with Safety Wire.
You can get things like FJR oil drain plugs pre-drilled, so I'm not the only guy doing this.
.
Cheers,
Red
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Red
P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.
Yeah, I ride motorcycles. I know why dogs put their heads out of the car windows.
Yeah, I fly hang gliders (3000 hrs.+). I know why the birds sing.
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