1. I did NOT remove the fork cap or dampening assembly from the upper fork tube. Instead, I used my impact wrench to remove the bolt underneath the lower fork tube that holds the piston in place. After re-assembly, you have to wiggle the piston into its recess for the lower fork tube, and then I used a small funnel to fill the fork with the prescribed amount of oil through that lower hole. Once the upper fork tube and the lower fork tube were split, I simply ran some solvent through the entire upper tube assembly to clean it. Same process for the side that has the dampening rod in it.
2. I did replace all of the bushings because I bought them, but honestly, the lower bushing (the one that rides up and down with the upper fork tube) was the only one with ANY wear on it. The middle and upper bushings had absolutely ZERO wear on them, and I would have no problem re-using them going forward.
3. I went to the Auto Parts house and bought a 2" exhaust tip. It flairs out at the end, so I cut that end off. The pipe itself is 1/16" wall thickness and it is perfect for driving in the middle bushing. Incidentally, it doesn't take much pressure to install the middle bushing - the "driver" is more like a guide.
4. I took some emory cloth and very lightly sanded a couple of spots on the upper fork tube where the triple clamps are installed, and there was a few small scratches on the tube. My thought was to make sure that the new fork seal had a very smooth ride down the upper tube in route to the lower fork leg. Maybe overkill, but the last thing you want is a nick on your brand new fork seal.
5. I used a piece of 2" PVC pipe (schedule 40) for the fork seal driver. I cut a slot in it, and then used my wife's hair dryer (our secret, please) to mold it to fit the fork seal. I think it came out pretty good:
I put a VERY light coat of waterproof lithium grease on the bushings, and on both sides of the seals to help with the install. I did not have to use a hammer of any kind to get anything installed. Just the weight of the drivers sliding them up and down.
6. I did buy the brass washers for the lower piston bolt, to make sure that they do not leak. The spring held enough tension against the piston to allow me to torque the lower bolt to the prescribed 25 ft. pds.
7. I went with the Showa (Honda) 8 weight oil, which I believe is just a smidge heavier than the stock oil. I think it makes the dampening much smoother than the stock oil, especially when the bike is pushed or heavily loaded.
8. Finally, I put a good coat of car wax (Nu Finish) on my lower fork legs. Let it dry before removing - I find this makes it much easier to clean off the bugs and dirt/grime after a long ride.
By the way, the next "long ride" starts Thursday. Woohoo!!!
