FJRiders.com

Anybody try one of these Ebay radiators? LINK

They're about $300 cheaper than OEM.

Yes. Not me, I don't know if they are here, or on the otherr forum. Basically, he had issues I believe with fit, and ended up returning it, and buying OEM. It may be one of the pieces that it's worth to go OEM then aftermarket.

One would think there should be no reason an aftermarket one would work as long as it fits properly, etc.... but I've heard of the occasional issue with them as well, so it's a coin flip. I'd tend to stick with aftermarket or one off a used FJR..... but wondering what is making you replace the rad....

I bought one for my 03. Havent installed it yet but quality looks good.

If the tanks are good..............Take it to a good radiator shop and see what they would charge to re-core it.
Got to be one are two good shops in ChicagoLand?

Aireboss wrote: ↑Sun Nov 12, 2017 7:59 pm If the tanks are good..............Take it to a good radiator shop and see what they would charge to re-core it.
Got to be one are two good shops in ChicagoLand?

Yeah, but which two?

wheatonFJR wrote:

Aireboss wrote: ↑Sun Nov 12, 2017 7:59 pm If the tanks are good..............Take it to a good radiator shop and see what they would charge to re-core it.
Got to be one are two good shops in ChicagoLand?

Yeah, but which two?:D

Who knows? Jeez.

The bike runs hot all the time and I’ve tried everything else.

0face wrote: ↑Sun Nov 12, 2017 9:28 pm

wheatonFJR wrote:

Aireboss wrote: ↑Sun Nov 12, 2017 7:59 pm If the tanks are good..............Take it to a good radiator shop and see what they would charge to re-core it.
Got to be one are two good shops in ChicagoLand?

Yeah, but which two?:D

Who knows? Jeez.

The bike runs hot all the time and I’ve tried everything else.

It is called a GEN FREAKING 3!

I think he likes riding his black girl that gets hot all the time, so no Gen3 for Marty.

No leaks?
that case take it to a radiator shop and have them clean it, inside & out, What ya got to lose? it's already broke?

Used Rex in Peoria for my trucks. Surprise they got a location in Chicago.

inhttps://www.rexradiator.com/locations/chicago-radiator-repair/

What do you mean by running hot? If you monitor coolant temp on a Gen3 you can watch it rise to 'hot' then the thermostat will open and it will cool down (I'm talking normal riding, not city stop and go)..... so fluctuating readings, which are completely normal. But what are those readings? If it never says "HOT", it's not a problem. It could go up to over 200 degrees, and down to say 180.... Anyway, those readings will tell you how the thermostat is cycling, and it could be a simple as changing it. I'd do that first if I suspected a cooling problem. The rad cap could be faulty if it won't hold 13-15 PSI (there is a tester for that, maybe at a local shop).
You can also see the temperature when the fans kick on, test that by running it (not riding) until they kick on...
The rad should not be the problem if in good condition... not blocked by debris, and the fins not bent, no loose fins.... your bike isn't old enough to have loose fins yet. The coolant should not boil until about 240. Check the coolant level when cold and top up if necessary... if you have to top up, it likely means the overflow reservoir is empty or very low, thus not enough to automatically top up when the bike cools down.

His is a 2008...he's got "BARS".

It's obviously running hotter than he has had in the past...unless he's drunk posting.

I've done pretty much everything Ray suggested except the Rad cap. Changed the thermostat etc. I've had the bike long enough to establish a range of "normal" (what it used to be) and now. It's not boiling over. The radiator has lots of bent fins and dings although its not leaking. I've cleaned all the road grime out of it. So basically I've narrowed it down to the radiator.

0face wrote: ↑Mon Nov 13, 2017 10:40 am I've done pretty much everything Ray suggested except the Rad cap. Changed the thermostat etc. I've had the bike long enough to establish a range of "normal" (what it used to be) and now. It's not boiling over. The radiator has lots of bent fins and dings although its not leaking. I've cleaned all the road grime out of it. So basically I've narrowed it down to the radiator.

Are you sure the temperature sensor and gauge are accurate? I'm not sure how you verify that, but sensors can vary as they age.

If you are confident that the radiator is the problem but it is externally clean and not leaking, then you can probably get it boiled out at a radiator shop to clean the interior passages.

I replaced the temp sensor. around when I did the valves. In the spring.


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0face wrote:I've done pretty much everything Ray suggested except the Rad cap. Changed the thermostat etc. I've had the bike long enough to establish a range of "normal" (what it used to be) and now. It's not boiling over. The radiator has lots of bent fins and dings although its not leaking. I've cleaned all the road grime out of it. So basically I've narrowed it down to the radiator.

You might hit up the local AutoBone or OhReally's and see if you can get a cheap fin straightening comb. Give it a try and see if it helps. If so, you can replace the radiator or just straighten the fins until they start breaking off.

I think Marty already has used those sex toys.

Sorry, why did I think you had a '15...... Normal for the temp to read 4 bars, and the fans kick on at 7. If it's always running around 5 or 6, then yeah, sumthin's up with the rad or the water pump not circulating enough. Prolly hard to diagnose this time of year with the temps being a lot cooler (normal may be down to 2 or 3 bars or 4). I would indeed get a fin comb and straighten those puppies out.... if you find a bunch of loose ones, that ain't good. Careful what you use to flush a rad..... vinegar would be as strong as I would go.

Mine had a pinhole leak on one of my rides into Quebec. Put in some stop leak. 2 years ago. CanadianFJR had fins like yours. all crushed and bent . His ran hot too. New rad for Scott and it's seemed to work.

Marty, sounds like you need to talk to Scott to see which Rad he used, OEM or aftermarket...