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Ever have that 5mm hex round out while trying to remove a brake pad pin out of your front calipers? Here's a suggested improvement for next time.... This applies to Gen II & III only, as Gen 1 has a different brake pad pin with cotter pins. I suspect one cause could be the galvanic corrosion that occurs between the stainless pin and the aluminum caliper. One fix is to buy a new OEM pin but they are quite expensive (~$30) and oh by the way don't break or lose the metal spring for the pads (~$27). Or, you could find a used caliper on ebay (I got one for $25 that includes all the expensive hardware and pads). Or, you can use a different pin that costs a lot less........

I have found a Honda pin that will fit the bill (~70mm). This pin has a hex head which will take an 8mm hex socket, much more robust than the 5mm internal hex. Honda Part No. 43215-KZ4-J41 is in the top part of the photo, with the OEM Yamaha pin below for comparison. Note extra thread length, etc. but the important part is the length to capture the brake pad. You don't have to have the O-ring if you lose one, it only serves as a guide as you insert the pin. See also the photo of both installed in an FJR front caliper.

The Honda pin costs ~$3.40, application is rear brake caliper of '08 CBR1000 and CRF450, perhaps other models. If you prefer a 5mm hex, perhaps try 45215-MAJ-G41, also 70 mm, but I have not verified this with a part in my hand.

I like less expensive, yet quality solutions.

thanks!

raYzerman wrote:Ever have that 5mm hex round out while trying to remove a brake pad pin out of your front calipers? Here's a suggested improvement for next time.... This applies to Gen II & III only, as Gen 1 has a different brake pad pin with cotter pins. I suspect one cause could be the galvanic corrosion that occurs between the stainless pin and the aluminum caliper. One fix is to buy a new OEM pin but they are quite expensive (~$30) and oh by the way don't break or lose the metal spring for the pads (~$27). Or, you could find a used caliper on ebay (I got one for $25 that includes all the expensive hardware and pads). Or, you can use a different pin that costs a lot less........

I have found a Honda pin that will fit the bill (~70mm). This pin has a hex head which will take an 8mm hex socket, much more robust than the 5mm internal hex. Honda Part No. 43215-KZ4-J41 is in the top part of the photo, with the OEM Yamaha pin below for comparison. Note extra thread length, etc. but the important part is the length to capture the brake pad. You don't have to have the O-ring if you lose one, it only serves as a guide as you insert the pin. See also the photo of both installed in an FJR front caliper.

The Honda pin costs ~$3.40, application is rear brake caliper of '08 CBR1000 and CRF450, perhaps other models. If you prefer a 5mm hex, perhaps try 45215-MAJ-G41, also 70 mm, but I have not verified this with a part in my hand.

Good job Ray...thanks for the tip.

Lookin for the Like button.

Gunny!


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Great tip! I will need to replace pads at some point!

i had a stuck pin, plus i completely wore the hex out. i took a shot of pb blaster to it, then used a heat gun and one of those reversing bits. worked like a charm.

my pin was aluminum and not stainless...wonder if yammie used various vendors?


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Hell with 77k on my 09 I have not yet replaced the brake pads. I change my own tires and check the pads when I change the tirer. I like Ray's idea because after 77k new Honda pins and a good cleaning make good maintenance sense.

Thanks Ray.

PS I am still trying to figure out how you and the Canadian invaders avoided a ticket in Eastern Washington when you got stopped. In the forum post the cop had a huge smile on his face - I am awestruck. You are amazing!

fontanaman wrote: I am still trying to figure out how you and the Canadian invaders avoided a ticket in Eastern Washington when you got stopped. In the forum post the cop had a huge smile on his face - I am awestruck. You are amazing!

Jim...... now with all my charm and brutally handsome looks.... and a forlorn looking Billy with socks on...... no bad paper. You had to be there. And what Marty said...

Looks like an excellent place to put a dab of antisieze when going back together.

If your internal hex is work to the point of no saving it, a bit of valve lapping compound on the wrench can help. Also driving a slightly oversize torx bit in can work as well.

The replacement from Honda looks like a winner. Especially at the price point.

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Time for a bump...

fontanaman wrote: ↑Wed Oct 26, 2016 11:36 pm I am still trying to figure out how you and the Canadian invaders avoided a ticket in Eastern Washington when you got stopped. In the forum post the cop had a huge smile on his face - I am awestruck. You are amazing!

I'm betting its just too much hassle to cite out of country drivers/riders... I've been stopped a few times in the USA and not once actually issued a ticket. YMMV.
I think in some cases, especially if you're on a bike... They're just happy you pulled over and stopped.
My personal best was this past summer getting nailed at 157kmh in a 110kmh zone out in Alberta... 47kmh over the limit. No ticket.

Oh... and cool beans on the pin hack Ray.

Hack wrote: ↑Mon Dec 10, 2018 7:07 pm

fontanaman wrote: ↑Wed Oct 26, 2016 11:36 pm I am still trying to figure out how you and the Canadian invaders avoided a ticket in Eastern Washington when you got stopped. In the forum post the cop had a huge smile on his face - I am awestruck. You are amazing!

I'm betting its just too much hassle to cite out of country drivers/riders... I've been stopped a few times in the USA and not once actually issued a ticket. YMMV.
I think in some cases, especially if you're on a bike... They're just happy you pulled over and stopped.
My personal best was this past summer getting nailed at 157kmh in a 110kmh zone out in Alberta... 47kmh over the limit. No ticket.

Oh... and cool beans on the pin hack Ray.

Yeah, I bet the fact you didn't have a USA, state issued license plate helped on that one.

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Mon Dec 10, 2018 7:41 pm
Yeah, I bet the fact you didn't have a USA, state issued license plate helped on that one.

Frankly... Alberta hates Ontario.
I'm surprised I didn't get tazer'd

This is a great thread and a great idea. Few questions:

1. Before I replace the pin, I have got to get it out of the caliper. Any tricks on preventing it from stripping when I put the muscles to it? Knock it with an impact driver? PB Blaster? Heat? All of the above?

2. Typing this from the office - not looking at the bike. Can I loosen these pins while the caliper is still mounted on the bike? Is the head of the pin facing outward and not obstructed by anything else? I'm thinking I would have better control by using two hands to concentrate on the pin, rather than one to hold the caliper and the other deal with the pin.

3. I can't visualize what you mean by "... don't have to worry about the o-ring…." with the new pin. Where is this o-ring? Why don't I have to worry about it? What does it do?

4. Do these pins only hold the pads for the "front only" part of the linked caliper? Is there a similar situation for the pads on the right caliper that are linked to the rear?

Thanks again - I'm going to order pads and pins and have them in the shop for when its time for this work.

1. I would shoot a little PB Blaster on it first and make sure your hex bit fits snug. Mine were pretty tight the first time I took them out.

2. They are used on all 4 sets of pads on the front calipers. They can be removed without taking the calipers off and in fact that's likely the best time to break them loose since the caliper is mounted fast to the fork tubes. The hex opening is facing out.

3. On the very end of the pin opposite the fastener end is a very small o-ring. I really don't understand the need for this as once these pins are installed it's sticking out past the back side of the caliper as mounted on the bike.

4. They're used on both front calipers, one pin per pair of pads so you'll need 4 pins if you wish to change them out. I've still got the original pins in mine at 114k. Whenever I pull wheels to mount tires or maybe once in between tire changes I always polish the pin on a wire wheel and coat it with a light anti corrosive. I use a tiny amount of never seize on the threads and decrease the torque when I reinstall them.

I trust you've never replaced the front pads on your FJR? Not trying to be a smart ass.

Did it on my Gen 1 - different animal totally.

Thanks for the tips. This thread is helpful to me.

What Chuck said.

I've changed lots of pads and one of my pins finally stuck at almost 137,000 miles (head rounded out). I never used anti-seaze and will reconsider that option in the future. I do ride in lots of rain here in the Seattle area and they use deicer on the roads (my hilly, curvy country road gets sprayed over night so I can not slip at 4:15am when I'm on it). Definitely a toxic combination for metal parts on the FJR.