FJRiders.com

danh600 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 23, 2018 9:01 am I really want to see this bike going again. I have the same bike and rode with Rob many times.

I hate seeing that bike like that.

I love how this community is supporting the sale and resurrection of this bike! Festus is the best person to nurse Jolene back to health, he is knowledgeable, patient, pays attention to detail, and is determined. Case in point: he had her running without error codes within a day! The rest will fall into place soon, he's not afraid to tackle anything.

Viper_Dad wrote: ↑Tue Jan 23, 2018 10:28 am Festus is the best person to nurse Jolene back to health, he is knowledgeable, patient, pays attention to detail, and is determined. Case in point: he had her running without error codes within a day! The rest will fall into place soon, he's not afraid to tackle anything.

Clearly we don't spend a lot of time talking when we ride together because that's about as wrong a couple of sentences as I've ever read

Not knowledgeable (I even had to look at how you spelled that to be able to type it again), never done anything other than change my oil and lube my clutch plates. Not sure that qualifies me as the best available candidate

Clearing the codes was easy. Remember, it was attacked by a baby alligator, the proof was easy to see.

The hard part is still ahead. If this stupid work thing wouldn't get in my way, I'd be in good shape.

Oh you got work to do..... you will notice 4 more bolts into the frame making the engine and frame one unit. Two are the big ones folks mount crash bars and sliders to, two are above that... the ones on the right side are in sleeves that have pinch bolts... no need to remove the pinch bolts methinks. But, first rad and headers have to come off, and put a jack under the engine. OK, leaving you to it....... it should look like this when you're well along. YIKES!!

Thanks Ray! I told Viper Dad last night that I stopped because I ran out of knowledge. My Dad asked me about draining the radiator and I said "I know, we need to do that next, but honestly, I don't know how to drain it. I think you take the water pump housing loose or something crazy like that, but I'm going to have to look at the manual".

That should demonstrate my level of competence on this project.

What's the worst that can happen? You destroy an almost perfectly good 2013? They made thousands of them!

If you've got a giant printer, might as well figure out how to use it for this build....

Thankful for a lunch break project today!







About 1/2 way done I'll hang it from a rafter or something so I can see how it all goes together (or apart).

Festus wrote: ↑Tue Jan 23, 2018 1:45 pm Thanks Ray! I told Viper Dad last night that I stopped because I ran out of knowledge. My Dad asked me about draining the radiator and I said "I know, we need to do that next, but honestly, I don't know how to drain it. I think you take the water pump housing loose or something crazy like that, but I'm going to have to look at the manual".

For most bikes this is pretty simple. Simply locate the lowest coolant hose connection and disconnect. Make sure you have a big enough catch can handy. That right there is lesson learned the hard way that I pass on to you for free.

It won't necessarily drain the entire system, but should get you started to get to removing stuff.

Section 3-27 of your FSM, remove bottom bolt of water pump, the one with the copper gasket. Coolant will go all over the place unless you keep your drain pan up and close. Drain it entirely with rad cap off for the last part.

I didn't think I'd get a chance to work on her tonight, but I managed to spend a little time with her.

Radiator drained and off, final drive oil drained, headers off, air box off, and the PAIR system undone. It all went very smoothly. I've built a lot of machinery in my career and so far, this has been a pleasure.









I'll browse through the manual tonight and see what's next. My goal is to have the engine out on Saturday. Hopefully these little tasks in the evenings is going to set me up for that schedule. Got the email from Partzilla that my order has been delayed. Not that it really matters, since I can't really put anything back together until I order the transmission parts, and I can't order them yet because I don't know what's bad.

Now THAT'S a nekkid FJR.

Do I need to take the final drive out? Doesn’t show that in the engine removal.

What about things like the oil pump, starter, etc that it’s listing in the tear down. For example, it’s telling me to remove the throttle bodies but I’m guessing that’s not necessary, right? Just trying to make sure I’m not tearing it down further than I have to.

Best get the throttle bodies out of the way to prevent accidental damage when you have the engine upside down. You have to remove the final drive to get the driveshaft out. Starter? don't see why. Oil pump? likely, but you'll find out once you have the pan off.

This is difficult to watch. I prefer shiny painted parts not guts spilled out.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Wed Jan 24, 2018 9:02 am Best get the throttle bodies out of the way to prevent accidental damage when you have the engine upside down. You have to remove the final drive to get the driveshaft out. Starter? don't see why. Oil pump? likely, but you'll find out once you have the pan off.

I was hoping to it was using a universal joint and I could slip the joint forward and leave it all in tact. Sounds like that's not an option?

I'll be checking the valve shims while it's on the ground. Never done that or seen it done, but anything I need to know? Take the valve cover off, rotate the engine, cam lobes up, and start checking the clearance with feeler gages?

Wish I had the time and space to do something like this. It would be completely over my head but I would certainly learn a lot. I tip my helmet to you for digging in to this, I'll be watching.

This guy....

"Don't know how to drain the radiator or check the valves. I think I'll split her open and fix the transmission."

I love your spirit of adventure and after all, you don't learn till you try. I'll be following closely because one way or another this is going to be entertaining.

Just to be clear, I'm not stupid, I'm ignorant. Two totally different things. One, you can fix

Also, just for a little background, I'm a machinist by trade and worked years assembling some extremely high speed machinery that makes a motorcycle look like a toy. While I've never pulled an engine or transmission on a bike down, the number of parts involved is very small relative to what I used to assemble, that's where the lack of fear comes from in pulling it apart.

Hopefully it's all go smooth. Who knows? Time will tell

Oh I got ya, but it's still fun to spectate. Looking forward to it.

Check the valves while it's all naked and held by the frame. Easier than on the floor.
Cam lobes are not up, but pointing outward as shown in the FSM.
I'd say you do a bunch of reading before you go too far......

Thanks Ray, that's my reading plan for the night.

Got 2 hours in tonight. As mentioned before, it's not at my house, otherwise, I'd work until midnight. Not much left to take apart because there are more parts off the bike than on it at this point.

I'll post a question or two at the bottom of this thread.

This is the first point that I wondered if it would ever run again....



Kind of uneasy holding them in my hand (that's what SHE said....sorry, couldn't resist)

Jolene was about to have a catastrophic failure. The baby alligator must have brought a friend. Look at the wire loom. Chewed through the casing.



This is the Throttle Servo Motor Coupler. I pulled this plug off 100% by the plug, zero by the wires. There are probably only a couple strands of that wire left. Not sure if that would have shut the bike down, but I suspect so. Not good. F'in alligators.



And looking in the same area, the stator wire loom was chewed through too. No doubt, Jolene was being sabotaged. Many hate her because she's beautiful. Don't hate the player, hate the game.



Little bastard broke the skin on 1 wire (stator wire that goes to the rectifier)







Then I found a big problem. A total lack of lubrication. Emergency situation....




Questions for the night -

1) On the final drive system, anything I need to take off, other than the shaft I've already removed? I didn't see where it even said to take any of that off in the manual. I'll go back and look again. Right now, the shaft is out and the plastic boot is off. Anything else I need to undo there?

2) Looks like I need to take the kickstand off, correct? Didn't see that listed either, but it looks to be in the way. Not a problem, just making sure I'm heading in the right direction.

3) Anything else I need to take off, like go ahead and pull the clutch out, if nothing more than to lighten it up a little more? Or leave it whole, in case for some unknown reason, it falls while taking out, then it dings the cover instead of the mounting surface?

See anything obvious I've missed? On the engine removal pages, I'm about done and I don't see much of anything still hooked up.