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Now that I see a close-up of the dogs, those two mating gears should be replaced, I mean, you're in deep and these are cheap. I did see something way back where one guy had undercut the dogs, but I don't think I would necessarily do that. The issue may have been a combination of the fork and dogs, who knows, but I would have expected to dogs to look worse.

Skipping forward to putting the engine back in, it might be a pain to line up the u-joint splines to get the engine in... I think easier with rear drive off.

Learning a lot.... didn't know the clutch had to come out, very kool project, just lots of labour. Time to go check your wiring for critter chews..... the blue painter's tape was a nice touch, and ViperDad..... pffft, only wussies won't get oil under their fingernails... (I don't like gloves either, I use a barrier cream (Liquid Gloves, etc.) massaged in and under fingernails before I start... soap and water cleanup). My grandpa used to rub on new grease before washing up, grease dissolves grease kinda thing.

Festus wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2018 2:04 pm
Here's a better photo of the dogs. Pretty gouged up, but whether or not it's bad enough to cause the problem, I have no idea. But I do know it's not going back in

Looks pretty gnarly to me...Says the non-mechanic.
Edit: Thanks for writing this up and including photos. Great stuff!

Ray, you might very well be right about the final drive. I just ordered a couple connectors, so I'll clean up the wiring this week once those parts come. I'll probably go ahead and lube the swing arm and center stand since the entire bike weighs about 75 lbs right now.

Just a couple of things for reference:

This is the chain that drives the oil pump. The top goes to the oil pump, the bottom is driven off a gear on the shaft the clutch is on. We took the oil pump off, and the chain comes off, but there is a bracket that shields the chain and both sides of the chain run through that bracket. The bolts are M6 socket head cap screws with thread locker on them. You can't get to them with a hex key on a socket unless you split the case and hold the case about 3" in the air. We got one bolt out and the other looked to be stripping the hex key we were using so I stopped and grabbed the bracket with my fingers and the loose end bent easily enough to bend it far enough to get one side of the chain out, then the other wide could be manipulated without getting that last bolt out. Then the chain just falls down into the lower part of the transmission cavity, behind the clutch assembly. Taking the clutch assembly out first would have taken the oil pump chain off the gear at the bottom, and when the top half came off, the oil pump chain would have come with that.



You can see that bracket that surrounds the oil pump chain in this photo. It's center of the photo, close to the top. It's a black bracket with a couple of "U" shapes bent in it that surrounds the chain. You can see the left one bent. That's the one we got loose and I moved it. Once that side was off, the other side can slip off on the right hand side because there's enough room to get that side off.



That's the oil pump chain on the bottom left, having fell to the bottom and just sitting on the drive gear for it. This metal plate has to come off to get the shift fork shafts loose to get the shift forks off. This is all behind the clutch assembly. There are holes in the clutch face and you can get to some of the bolts by doing that, but I don't believe you'll ever get to the retainer plate for the shift fork shaft to come out without taking that off. My advice would be take that entire clutch assembly off first. Probably while it's still on the bike, then you can put the cover back on to take the engine out. Just how I'd do it next time, if there was ever a next time. The retainer plate is behind this metal plate.



This little metal plate inside the clutch opening has to come off before the cases will split.

Festus wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2018 2:04 pm

A cheap correct size socket and a grinder will make you the tool you need to get that funky thing out. Lots of "Specialty" sockets, like for castle nuts, out there on ebay made just like that and they work well. I bet you have everything you need to fab one of those up.

I do and that was my first thought. I was 4 ft from a grinder. However, that grinder is 6 ft from an open engine and a couple of feet from a bench of parts that I didn't want to get grit in. I'll make something at work for the installation so I don't have to risk any metal grit being in the air around all of that stuff.

Spent a little time cleaning up the explosion that happened when this all came apart. Got things a little more organized for the rebuild. Just a few more things that came up that I thought I'd mention. Remember, I was trying to remove as little as possible to split the cases.

Because of that, there was one gear set that was in the way but we worked around it. So these two bolts come off and are still in the case. To take this gear set out looked like a pain so they stayed. If you take that gear set out, then it'll be a breeze. If not, then you'll have to work around these two bolts.

Back corner where final drive gear goes out the back of the transmission.



By the oil pump, same shaft as above but different gear. You can also see that guard around the oil pump chain in that photo.



Still has the ink for setting the gears up on it. That's amazing to me.



One for the "What the heck is that thing" category. What's this thing in the inside of the frame by the engine bay?

Festus wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2018 8:44 pmBack corner where final drive gear goes out the back of the transmission.

Hey that’s my bolt! Damn I do good work. So what if it didn’t come out?

I'm enjoying the journey, you're doing awesome! Can I ship my basket case engine down to you? There ain't nuthin left in my engine cases..... nor did I see any of it being taken apart......

BikerGeek wrote: ↑Fri Jan 26, 2018 4:36 pm

When I heard the name Jolene, I had flashbacks to Jolene Blaylock when she was on Star Trek: Enterprise.

Please, allow me.

/

In his creepiest voice... "I remember her..."

You get a Dilly Dilly here!

Photos are GREAT, except for the Hokie hat.

Uncle Hud wrote: ↑Mon Jan 29, 2018 11:48 am Photos are GREAT, except for the Hokie hat.

At least his hat didn't have a honeybee on it.

In all fairness, the hat was on Viper Dad, which was free labor helping pull the engine out.

I figured you guys needs something sexier to look at than engine parts. After all, being a Hokie hat model is my day job.

Viper_Dad wrote: ↑Mon Jan 29, 2018 1:53 pm I figured you guys needs something sexier to look at than engine parts. After all, being a Hokie hat model is my day job.

Must get you lots of chicks...

Viper_Dad wrote: ↑Mon Jan 29, 2018 1:53 pm I figured you guys needs something sexier to look at than engine parts. After all, being a Hokie hat model is my day job.

You kidding me!! Engine parts ARE sexy!

Not a happy day. I have 2 open orders with Partzilla. One for the crankbolts (that I ordered because I suspected they'd take time) and that order has pushed back 2 or 3 times. I called and they finally came in today, so they'll ship tomorrow. Then the kicker. When I placed all the gears in the cart, the 2 gears said "1-2 days before shipping". While I had the guy on the phone checking my crank bolts, I asked him if he could tell if everything was going to ship Wednesday as noted on my order.

"Looks like the gears are going to ship on the 26th of February".

WTF?????

NOT A HAPPY CAMPER. Why show something ships in 1-2 days, take the order, and then update the order to 1 month away?

I guess I'll try for Plan B since Plan A isn't worth a shit.

Sounds like they're coming from Japan..... nobody will have them... try PartShark (by phone?)

+1 Gunny, I've always had good results with PartShark.

Yup, coming from Japan. Called Yamaha in California and they said none in stock, shipping from Japan late Feb.

Bummed. Partshark is closed for the night, but I'll try tomorrow. I called a dealer and asked about it and he looked on the entire dealer network and said there's not 1 listed on any dealer in the USA (not sure I believe that). Yamaha says they can't see dealer networks so they don't know, but they do know they aren't showing any available and they are coming from Japan. I asked if they might be available in another country, and was told that the parts weren't the same across countries. Not sure if that's one that varies or not.

Just not thrilled about having to leave this thing open for 2 months.

I say two months because the dealer said their system is showing them due in 3/18. I imagine Partzilla is going to move my date to late Feb. and then when that date comes and goes, they'll update it to mid-late March.

If anyone's got any suggestions, I'm listening!

Where's Wheaton park his bike at night?