Check engine light sort of problem

[John d]

It seems now, that since I have left Canada and the bike is not overnighting in my garage, that it always has a check engine light on after starting. It runs badly and then stalls. If however I rev it up, shut it down and then restart there is no CEL and and runs fine for the rest of the day.

It probably has codes stored inside its mystery box, but being South Carolina right now has me not really wanting to deal with it, especially since it's not stopping me from riding every day.

Any ideas? Let me know at EOM when I get there.
2008 FJR A

[wheatonFJR]

Glad it is rideable, hope some answers come your way. See you in a couple days.

[1911]

SOUTH Carolina huh? If you’re in the upstate I know where there’s a FSM, a few tools and a little knowledge

[bill lumberg]

I need to put my diagnostic tool and FJR pigtail in my bike before I leave for MV.

[John d]

I need to put my diagnostic tool and FJR pigtail in my bike before I leave for MV.

Thanks Bill, but a regular diagnostics tool can't be attached to a gen2, I believe.

[wheatonFJR]

I need to put my diagnostic tool and FJR pigtail in my bike before I leave for MV.

Thanks Bill, but a regular diagnostics tool can't be attached to a gen2, I believe.

I know Duane has a Gen2. We are meeting up in Pickens, SC about noon on Friday after work and going who knows where. Maybe he'll bring a tool. (besides me, you snarky bastards).

[John d]

I need to put my diagnostic tool and FJR pigtail in my bike before I leave for MV.

Thanks Bill, but a regular diagnostics tool can't be attached to a gen2, I believe.

I know Duane has a Gen2. We are meeting up in Pickens, SC about noon on Friday after work and going who knows where. Maybe he'll bring a tool. (besides me, you snarky bastards).

So you won't be at EOM?

[wheatonFJR]

Thanks Bill, but a regular diagnostics tool can't be attached to a gen2, I believe.

I know Duane has a Gen2. We are meeting up in Pickens, SC about noon on Friday after work and going who knows where. Maybe he'll bring a tool. (besides me, you snarky bastards).

So you won't be at EOM?

No...we will end up at EOM, just not sure what circuitous route we will be taking to get to a destination so close to home..

[Hppants]

"circuitous" - $0.25 word, well done, Wheatie!

My Gen 1 did this two or three times when I had started it cold, only ran it for a second or two, shut it down, and then on the re-start, it would run like crap and eventually clear up. The other sandbox used to call this the "cold start syndrome". Ever since, even if I had to start the bike cold for a very short time, I'd let it idle for a while and bring it up to running temperature.

Any of this sound familiar?

[FJRoss]

If fault code 14, I might have an idea.

[John d]

I need to put my diagnostic tool and FJR pigtail in my bike before I leave for MV.

Thanks Bill, but a regular diagnostics tool can't be attached to a gen2, I believe.

I know Duane has a Gen2. We are meeting up in Pickens, SC about noon on Friday after work and going who knows where. Maybe he'll bring a tool. (besides me, you snarky bastards).

I'm at a small SNICKER event over at Oconee State Park. Not sure I'll be able to hook up with you guys at this point. Today, the bike started with no CEL. Go figure. See you guys over at EOM Friday!

[raYzerman]

John, I'm here but gone all day Friday back 6 pm-ish... we can look at it then unless you have it resolved before that.

[FJRoss]

This was my similar issue that was Fault Code 14 related...
https://www.fjrforum.com/topic/170314-f ... nt-1345182

[raYzerman]

Yesterday we checked the codes.... 14, 22, 30, 33 were stored. 14 - Intake Air Pressure sensor (MAP sensor), which John had fixed a year or so ago IIRC. 22 is Intake Air Temperature sensor. 30 is Lean Angle Sensor, 33 is #1/4 ignition coil.... we're not sure how long this history existed, so, cleared them all, today 14 came back. There occasionally is a low idle issue, and the CEL clears with an ignition cycle.... he'll address it at home, bike is running fine mostly all day. Looking like need to clean up the vacuum hose again maybe, refresh the spark plug connections.

[John d]

Two years ago I cleaned out vacuum lines leading to the map sensor, but did not clean the MAP sensor itself. That solved my problem at that time.

So what product should I buy to clean the inside of the MAP sensor, should I decide to do so?

[FJRoss]

I think that might be a problem, they can be easily damaged. Might just make sure there isn't a glob of goo at the opening. Try a toothpick maybe. I think solvent would be a bad idea.

[raYzerman]

I'll agree with Ross, I'd go with the toothpick idea, as long as it has a decent opening, good to go. There is likely a diaphram inside, no pokey, just clean what you can see.... I'd shy away from solvents too. IF it's blocked, it's likely at the tip.
I mostly thought the "beeswax" like stuff was dried up rubber lubricant they may have used at the factory?? Like we used to use at the automotive plant.

[John d]

Two years ago, with the previous problem, the inside ot the MAP sensor was spotless clean black plastic, so I left it alone.
I'll get to work on it this weekend.

[John d]

Update;

It was 3 years ago, not 2, that I had a similar problem. Back then a simple ignition cycle did not do anything. It ran like crap until it got fully warmed up, then it ran fine. The problem started near Natural Bridge, Virginia, and I managed 2 days like that to get home. I cleaned out the vacuum lines to the MAP sensor per advice from raYzerman, then it ran like new, until on the way down to EOM this year.

Since the symptoms were not exactly the same, or should I say the quick remedy, I assumed that it would not be the same problem. Lightning can't strike twice, can it? I mean, that would be unheard of around here, right? But, the bike is getting on, an '08 with 106000 miles on it.

Guess what?

It is the same problem, in that the vacuum lines to the MAP sensor, again had goo in them, but this time a drop of goo was also visible in the inlet port of the MAP sensor. So I cleaned it all up, and guess what? The bike runs perfect again.

Anyway, some guy smarter than me had two ideas about how this could happen in the first place.

1. There could be a low spot in the vacuum lines where this goo can accumulate, thereby plugging the vacuum line to the MAP sensor. Plugged line = bike runs like crap. I need to check and probably rearrange the vacuum lines, so there is positive drainage back to the throttle bodies (no low spots.) Next time I'm under the tank, I'll check that out.

2. The goo has to come from somewhere, right? It may, theoretically, be unatomized fuel backing up into the vacuum lines due to an injector not working 100%. The solution to that, would be to take out the injectors and have them professionally cleaned - well it can't hurt, but would cost $$, otherwise, pour in some more Techron.

That's all there is to it, so far. I'll update more when I get under the tank again - some day.

[raYzerman]

I'm betting you're one of those guys who doesn't change his blinker fluid often enough. The stuff gets sucked in everywhere and old blinker fluid tends to turn to goo.
I can't explain why it got gooey again. Vacuum is pulling on the MAP sensor, not pressure the other way.... dunno. Should have nothing to do with the injectors. You might be onto something with positive drainage though.